Fernweh, An Ache for Distant Places

Cave City, Kentucky is known worldwide as the gateway to Mammoth Cave National Park, and for providing the substantial bulk of lodging options and amenities for visitors.

It is located just 10 miles east of Mammoth Cave, 80 miles south of Louisville, KY, and  90 miles north of Nashville, TN.

The area was first commercially established as a resort for the Knob City Land Company in 1853, and Cave City itself was incorporated in 1866.

Cave City gives Route 66 vibes, loaded with tons of Roadside Americana and a scattering of ghost towns along the way.

Dazzling vintage signs and flashing lights, larger than life animal statues, and all sorts of kooky western themed places line the main road, Highway 31, through town.

Dinosaur World is one of the most over the top places. It is run down, delightfully tacky, and pulls  a steady line of visitors.

Who does not love dinosaurs, or to at least scream at the sight of skeletons on display?

Other attractions include the Onyx Cave & Rock Shop, Crystal Onyx Cave Attraction, Froggett’s Guntown Mountain, Raven’s Cross Haunted Village (seasonal), Big Mike’s Rock Shop, Hatfield & McCoy Museum, Outlaw Cave at Jesse James Riding Stables, Green River Canoe & Kayak, and Mammoth Cave Wildlife Museum.

Mammoth Cave Wax Museum and Kentucky Action Park have closed, unfortunately.

The Olde Gener’l Store and Tom’s Tee Pee are two of the largest spots for shopping. Both are full of some really interesting things, but we were disappointed to find that the crystals and “Native” goods in places around there have been commercially imported and/or are cheaply made imitations.

If you are looking for a place to buy authentic Native American items and support local tribes, this is not it.

Bouji Palomino is a cute store with a collection of what we call “sassy lady shirts” and a lot of basic staple pieces. We were really hankerin’ for some fancy western gear, but no dice.

On that note, I really do not enjoy shopping in general, so do not let my comments turn you away from shopping your heart out in Cave City. There are quirky and fun little stores all over the place!

We stayed at the Wigwam Village #2 and it was definitely my favourite experience in Cave City. The motel is unique and one of the finest examples of Roadside Americana in the region.

You can not miss it when you pass, and it is nearly impossible to resist stopping for a photo even if you are not a guest.

We arrived and met with the owner who welcomed us to sit, meet the adorable camp cats, and gave us a rundown of the motel’s history.

A man named Frank Redford created and patented his “Wigwam Motel” design in 1936. The first motel was built in Horse Cave a couple miles down the road, and the second was this location in Cave City.

There were seven villages altogether, with additional locations built between 1933-1949 in Alabama, Florida, Arizona, Louisiana, and California. Aside from Cave City, there are only two surviving locations in Holbrook, Arizona and San Bernardino, California.

One thing I really appreciated is that right off the bat, the owner told us that they are aware of the instance of cultural appropriation that took place in the 1930s when these motel villages were being built.

He spoke about the modern American fascination and obsession with Native American culture and the Wild West that was all the rage back then, combined with Frank Redford’s desire to create lodging that really stands apart from every other place travelers pass durng their journeys.

Learn more about the development of the site, the remodeling progress, the cultural wrongs being righted, and the amazing things being celebrated throughout this entire process on their website.

This also includes a link to author Katie Algeo’s anthropological case study and article “Indian for a Night: Sleeping With the ‘Other’ at Wigwam Village Tourist Cabins.’

We loved our room, the quaintness and cleanliness, the firm beds, and especially the powerful AC unit blasting us into blissful sleep after a long day at Mammoth Cave National Park in the heat.

The bathroom still has its original tile and those pipes are not stingy with the hot, steamy water.

At night, guests gather around the campfire and chill out while the kids play on the playground, and even long after they retire to bed.

We went to Cave City Creamery for coffee the next morning, which blended perfectly with an overcast morning and sitting among the “wigwams’ to watch the storm roll in. I love this ice cream mural inside!

For dinner we went to Bucky Bee’s BBQ, a local family-owned restaurant and community favourite.

We ordered onion rings, of course, and they were fire. The mac and cheese was not very good, but I loved the brisket that comes with a crisp cornmeal pancake. Bucky Bee’s makes two of their own barbecue sauces; sweet or spicy, which is also pretty sweet.

We also tried the fried potatoes and a barbecue chicken taco. They have huge portions and we ended up taking more than half our food home for later.

None of the websites or brochures we found mentioned anything about a nightlife district or something remotely similar to a walkable Main Street in Cave City, but we found a small three-block segment of Broadway that did the trick.

Cave City Pizza, The Dive Bar, and The Roxglass are three places you have to check out for after hours fun and adult drinks.

The Roxglass is fairly new and hosts live bands on a regular basis.

The Ace Theatre is no longer used for theatrical productions, but the beloved sign has been restored and it is now home to retail shops.

Other businesses in this area include several antique shops that we can not wait to return to on our next visit.

At the end of the block, before the train tracks, there is a nice park with several informative historical plaques about the town and various battles that occurred there.

You can also pick up a map and learn about the Floyd Collins Trail. Be sure to take a photo to guide you, as there is no official website to follow on a tour.

In the area for a while? Follow me to Mammoth Cave, Horse Cave, Munfordville, and Glasgow!

********************
© Copyright Fernwehtun, 2015- Current. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Fernwehtun and Fernwehtun.com with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.