Fernweh, An Ache for Distant Places

You all know I hate shopping, and I would never have thought I would be writing an entire blog about a store, but Wall Drug is so much more than that. It is a lighthouse in its own ocean, just out in the Midwestern plains.

WALL, SOUTH DAKOTA
The small town of Wall is in southwestern South Dakota near the Badlands which form a natural, geological “wall” around the town.

Wall was founded as a city in 1908 and has a population of less than 700 people in just a little over two square miles.

It is the gateway to the Badlands National Park and it is home to both the National Grasslands Visitor Center and Wall Drug. 

WALL DRUG
Wall Drug is kind of like a quirky, Wild Western version of Rock City in Southeastern, USA where you start seeing signs in every town within a 30 mile radius. 

Each one beckons you to “See Rock City” and after years of this, you end up shouting “I DID! I ALREADY SAW IT! WHAT DO YOU PEOPLE WANT FROM ME?” every time you pass one. 

Wall’s advertising does not put the same kind of pressure on you, but you will start seeing the signs everywhere as you approach. It is not as ubiquitous and all-knowing as Rock City, but you can not miss them.

Signs for Wall Drug are hand-painted or hand-drawn, depicting simple qualities of this charming little western wonderland. 

Dorothy and Ted Hustead purchased this defunct drugstore back in 1931 and even after five years, the business had not grown much.

Dorothy had the simple but brilliant idea to offer free ice water to all the folks who passed by each day, thirsty and hot while traveling through the dusty plains and the Badlands.

Her idea was an instant hit, business started booming, and they have expanded more and more since then. It is what helped them survive the Great Depression. 

Today, Wall Drug is known and remembered as “America’s Favorite Roadside Attraction” and “The Free Ice Water Store.” 

A REAL PHARMACY
At Wall Drugstore you can get your prescriptions filled, sure. You can pick up some Ibuprofen and a snack like you can at any drugstore.

The “World’s Largest Drugstore” is more like a museum though, with all sorts of vintage memorabilia and artifacts. 

I watched an older gentleman walk in to pick up his refill, completely unphased by the novelty or ornateness of it all. 

SHOP THE WALL DRUG MALL
Wall has an indoor mall where you can buy cowboy and western memorabilia, hats and boots, belts and buckles, vests, blankets, leather goods, camping supplies, knives, housewares, authentic Native American art, paintings, sculptures, carvings, beadwork, crafts, clothing, accessories, and western-style Tiffany lamps.

They have a bookstore, jewelry store, toy store, rock/gem shops, gold panning areas, and huge galleries.

Filling every inch of space between the shops and corridors are life-sized statues of Western icons and animals, signs, light fixtures, furniture, and elaborate scenes on display. 

There are a few oddities that stood out like the mythical Jackelope that seems to be a big hit around here. You can buy mounted figures, keychains, or whatever else you may life with its likeness. 

HAVE A BITE AT THE WESTERN ART GALLERY RESTAURANT
Many visitors come to Wall Drug for a hot meal, sweet treat, or the always valid five cents cup of coffee. 

We picked several items to sample and ended up taking a huge to go box, but among them was a breakfast sandwich and a stack of hot cakes. 

Just about everyone we talked to about going to the Badlands made sure we knew to try their homemade apple pie. It was worth all the chatter, especially the crust, which I usually skip. 

You can watch them make donuts and other pastries while you wait for your order. 

The restaurant sits inside the Western Art Gallery itself, with more than 300 oil paintings lining the walls of its dining rooms and dozens of bronze sculptures. 

This gallery is the largest privately-owned Western art collection in the country, and has a seating capacity of 530. Be sure to browse around a while after you fill your belly. 

THE BACKYARD
Wall Drug’s Backyard area is full of mini-replicas of famous sites like Mount Rushmore combined with statues of horses and carriages, a giant Jackelope, a taxidermized buffalo, more cowboys, a T-Rex coming out of the ceiling, a jumping jets play area, and the famous Free Ice Water self-serve stand. 

Stop by the Prairie Parlor, Mining Company rock shop, Shooting Gallery Arcade, and the Little Britches Toy Emporium. 

Wall Drug also has a Traveler’s Chapel, if that suits you, and so many more things to see. Plan to spend 2-3 hours there so you can take everything in. 

Before you get back on the highway to visit the Badlands, be on the lookout for a giant 80-feet tall dinosaur statue and this funny gas station that calls itself an “auto livery.” They have an abnormal amount of beef jerky inside, just so you know.

In the area for a while? Follow me to the Badlands National Park and other cool places in the Black Hills of South Dakota like Wind Cave National Park, Spearfish Canyon, Custer State Park, and Rapid City!

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