Fernweh, An Ache for Distant Places

Clinton is a small town in East Tennessee’s Anderson County alongside Norris, Oak Ridge, Rocky Top, and Oliver Springs.

Many communities in this area were originally developed by the government as an experiment in urban planning and to support employees of ongoing confidential and/or industrial projects.

Goin’ Into Town
Crossing the Clinch River via the Hon. William Everette Lewallen Memorial bridge a few miles down, Highway 25W becomes Main Street and leads you right into the municipal squares of Clinton and the Hoskins Pharmacy & Grill.

Hoskins carries medical supplies, pharmaceuticals, gifts, local goods, antiques, baby items, clothing, and doubles as an ice cream shop and grill.

Hoskins is exactly what I imagined these nearly extinct drugstore combos would be, long before buildings were renovated and chopped into pieces or torn down to accommodate strip malls.

On this particular morning, the store had not yet reached its morning rush. I found myself in the company of a few sleepy staff members and the smell of frying bacon.

Next to Hoskins is the Ritz Theatre. Now Showing: Spiderman.

Just Spiderman.

There are several monuments and plaques across the street.

Crunch Time
There are a few restaurants and cafes downtown, but I have not had much luck catching them during open hours. E. Claire’s Coffee House is the new kid on the block, having  opened on Valentine’s Day of 2019.

We stopped in for a snack and saw that they have a very warm, welcoming atmosphere.

I was drawn to their pastry case like a moth to flame, and soon my wish was granted.

We split an E. Claire, the cafe’s namesake, and an iced coffee. Perfection.

Several visits prior, I was talked into ordering this sandwich called the Truffles 10 at the Truffles Cupboard Cafe, which brings to mind that old adage about Communism looking great on paper but not in practice. Leave it to me to link just about anything back to the Motherland.

I was intrigued but slightly shook by the description as follows: a thicc slice of meatloaf, a fried green tomato slice,  fried potatoes, pimento cheese, and grilled onions between slices of marbled rye.

At first I was mystified. Could they really pull it off? Is it a complex sandwich or a shape-shifting casserole?

I can respect it for what it is. Admittedly I do not like most southern American foods. I have a diverse palate, and I gave it a shot, but absolutely none of those things have any business on marbled rye.

As Merle said, Mama tried.

Recently I learned that Truffles closed, which is a shame, but I am leaving this story because you all need to know what kind of place Clinton is. Southern comfort at its finest.

For those with more old-fashioned preferences, the Golden Girls Restaurant  serves up an American style breakfast and many other favourites just a few minutes outside the historic square.

Bit of History
Anyone who loves shopping, particularly for antiques, could probably spend an entire day perusing the historic Clinton Square. I enjoyed my time there and found some fantastic items, but I had something else in mind.

The Green McAdoo Cultural Center is located half a mile outside the town center at the top of the hill. Clinton High School was the first public school that received a court-ordered desegregation in the late 50s, a ruling that was not embraced with open arms.

KKK members held rallies and forced their children to form and join a white supremacist youth coalition. Picketing and riots took place, the mob got involved, well-meaning community leaders were attacked and beaten,  and ultimately the school was bombed.

Of course this violence and hatred did not reflect the views of everyone in the town, and Clinton seems to be a welcoming community today.

Green McAdoo now stands as a memorial for these brave students and the adults who fought to desegregate and to protect their lives and rights. To learn more about the Clinton 12, watch one of these short documentaries.

Old Time Music
Ciderville Music Store is an old-time music shop closer to the Powell community.

Despite the posted “No Jamming!” sings, there are usually some fellas in the side room playing music, and they have live shows throughout the week.

Today they were playing Merle and it set the tone for my day.
https://youtu.be/loT_pYzi3Vw?list=RDEMRLoux9MQGLvHnL9Fe3qS2Q

This line of multi-hued upright basses makes me giddy.

Ciderville is where I refer all my musician friends to as they are passing through the mountains on tour or visiting.

ANTIQUE TRAIL
Clinton is nationally famous for its Clinton Antique Trail. There are over a dozen separate antique malls and shops in Clinton, give or take the occasional closing and reopening, and many have been fixtures since the late 90s or early 2000s.

At one point my mother and her friends had considered a lease for their own antique store, but the majority of commercial property was in shambles back then. I enjoy seeing the historic area continue to be revitalized and grow, little by little.

The intersection of Market Place and Main Street comprises historic downtown Clinton and the densest segment of the Antique Trail. Shops line both sides of Market Place with a handful of cafes in between.

The tiny town square frequently hosts antique festivals, family nights, live music, block parties, and other events.

Around the corner is the Clinton Antique mall with three floors of booths, displays, and a bookstore. As you enter, some very nice elderly gentlemen welcome visitors from a half moon of rocking chairs.

These guides of the old world offer assistance during your quest, and are more than happy to give directions if you have the time.

Sadly, Amelia’s Café closed shortly after I published this.

Clinton has a variety of more modern shops and boutiques if you get tired of browsing antiques. It really is an adorable and underrated town.

In the area for a while? Follow me to see more of Anderson County in Norris and Oak Ridge.

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