Grave Delights: Louisville’s Cave Hill Cemetery, the Shrine of Magnus and Bonosa, & the Highlands District

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CAVE HILL CEMETERY
Cave Hill Cemetery is the largest in Louisville, Kentucky, and one of the largest in the country. It spans around 300 acres compared to Hollywood Forever Cemetery’s 62 acres.

Cave Hill Cemetery was intentionally created in the “rural garden” style that was unique to the United States in the Victorian Age, which incorporated elaborate headstones with botanical gardens, water features, wildlife, an arboretum, and even a cave.

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Such cemeteries utilized natural landscapes and were intended to be a destination for the Living to rest, enjoy picnics, and spend the day appreciating an outdoor museum of art and nature, just as much as they were to house the Dead.

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Victorian extravagance was all the rage in its early years, and led Louisville’s most wealthy to have monuments and statues created abroad in Italy and Greece then have them shipped into the cemetery, sometimes 10-15 years before their deaths.

The tradition to flash one’s wealth and status even post mortem has continued, supported by a significantly large number of marble, granite, concrete, and bronze artists in the Louisville area.

Say what you will about that but this place is fascinating and beautiful, and only sometimes a bit extra.

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Before becoming a cemetery, the land was owned by the family of William Johnston and was first utilized as a farm. Johnston passed away in 1798 and the City of Louisville purchased the land in the 1830s.

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Cave Hill Cemetery was chartered and dedicated in 1848. It has five man-made lakes that are fed by Beargrass Creek that springs from an actual cave, though that cave is now off-limits to the public.

A longtime nickname of Cave Hill Cemetery is the “City of the Dead” as there are more than 130,000 interred and room for over 20,000 more. It is an active cemetery where individuals are still being buried.

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NATIONAL CEMETERY
Cave Hill has a National Cemetery in its northwest corner. These six plots honour soldiers of the American Revolutionary War and other wars, more than 6,100 Union soldiers and around 230 Confederate soldiers, in the National Cemetery alone.

More soldiers, including British and German soldiers, are buried throughout the rest of the cemetery.

Cave Hill Cemetery has been on the National Register of Historic Places since 1979, with the National Cemetery added separately in 1998.

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Some of the most notorious people buried at Cave Hill Cemetery include Muhammad Ali, Louisville founder George Rogers Clark, riot grrrl rocker Mia Zapata, Harry “The Frito-Lay Magician” Collins, bourbon magnate Julian Proctor “Pappy” Van Winkle, and “Happy Birthday to You” composer Mildred Jane Hill.

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James Graham Brown, a developer and entrepreneur famous for building the historic Brown Hotel, Brown Theatre, Brown Garage, Kentucky Towers, and the Martin Brown Building (later called the Commonwealth Building) has been interred in Cave Hill Cemetery since his death in 1969.

This map will help you find whoever you may be looking for.

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For me, the most interesting grave is that of Colonel Harland Sanders.

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Sanders is most famous for founding Kentucky Fried Chicken, but there is so much more to his story. Be sure to visit the Colonel Sanders Park and KFC Museum if you are ever in Corbin, Kentucky.

His daughter created the bust of him at the site, and he oversaw the design of his final resting place before his death in 1980. Sixteen years later, when I was in middle school, his wife Claudia passed away.

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Sanders and my grandfather both lived in Louisville at the same time and share the same surname as mine. My grandfather has always told me that they were widely acknowledged as being cousins.

I do not know anyone from that branch of the family tree, but if any of you end up reading this, drop me a line!

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EASTERN CEMETERY
Eastern Cemetery is adjacent to, but not part of, Cave Hill Cemetery. I mention this because it is often mistaken as another one of Cave Hill’s features.

Eastern Cemetery once served as a final resting place for the city’s unidentified deceased. Places like these are often called Pauper’s Graves or Potter’s Fields, and are where the unfortunate or “undesired” deceased were and/or are buried.

In 1989 and well into the 1990s, Eastern Cemetery was the subject of a horrifying scandal after a “whistleblower” exposed the terrible mismanagement of bodies and burials in this cemetery.

Staff were exposed for reusing burial plots and conducting mass, illegal burials. Donated cadaver parts were found haphazardly scattered all over the grounds, inside various facilities, and in trash receptacles.

Families who had paid for their loved ones to have proper burial plots in Cave Hill Cemetery were devastated to discover that many of the bodies were simply dumped in the Eastern Cemetery instead.

There is a staggering discrepancy of almost 140,000 individuals interred with only 16,000 identifiable graves.

Bodies are no longer interred in the Eastern Cemetery, but no official entity has taken responsibility for remedying this disaster. Eastern Cemetery is currently maintained solely by the Friends of Eastern Cemetery nonprofit organization and other volunteers.

You can learn more about that by watching this free documentary on YouTube:


CHURCH OF ST. MARTIN OF TOURS

A mile or so from Cave Hill Cemetery is another fascinating and macabre site,  the shrine of Martyred Saints Magnus and Bonosa. The preserved skeletons of these holy saints are inside the St. Martin of Tours Catholic Church on Shelby Street. 

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Magnus was a Centurion, and Bonosa was allegedly a virgin who sacrificed herself to martyrdom after Magnus was martyred for his faith.
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The bodies were eventually sent to St. Martin of Tours after leaders petitioned Rome for holy relics to bolster the morale of its congregation and to tie them closer to the heart of the Papacy.
You can read more about them and the veneration ceremonies for them here.
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The bodies lie in reliquaries on either side of the cathedral’s main altar.
You can watch this recording of the reinternment mass for the two saints that took place back in 2012, if you are really into that.
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At St. Martin the doors never close and the cathedral is open to the public, but it is an active church with frequent masses, adorations, and other events throughout the week.
If you are a casual tourist looking for the shrines, be sure to not interrupt or approach altars during services. Sit in the back like the heathen you are until it ends and people leave.
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My second bit of advice is to bring a scarf or head covering to wear inside the cathedral, as all the women we saw were wearing one.
Despite not being religious, traveling overseas has taught me to keep a scarf in my bag for the occasions I visit holy sites. I do this out of respect for the people whose sacred space I am entering, and because some places mandate it for entry.
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While you are at St. Martin of Tours, check out the giant organ and the original stained glass panels with German and Latin subtext.
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There are many  interesting places near St. Martin of Tours like the old Waverly Hills Sanitorium, Maple Hill Manor, Liberty Hall, the Loudon House, and the Highlands district.

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The Highlands is Louisville’s original “Restaurant Row” and is packed to the gills with restaurants and bars of every cuisine and theme.
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It was one of the most colourful, eclectic, and diverse neighbourhoods we spent time in.
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We loved seeing bookshops, an Occult store, a tattoo studio, and vintage boutiques all wedged in between Victorian houses and vibrant murals.
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After spending hours out sightseeing, we recharged on cardamom coffee and a chai latte at Haraz, a Yemeni Coffee House.
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I was almost overwhelmed with all the exotic treats loaded with saffron, pistachio, and cinnamon.
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Finally I committed to a slice of pistachio cheesecake and the Haraz version of a cinnamon roll, more like a cream-filled crispy baklava dough with caramelized butter and sugar on top, and without nuts.
We loved Haraz so much that we visited the other Louisville location next to the Historic Brown Hotel the next day.
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Other Haraz locations are beginning to pop up around the eastern half of the US, but I can not currently justify omitting them for being a corporate chain.
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Be on the lookout for murals here. Some are a bit faded, but it shows they have been part of the Highlands culture for a long time, and are not just recent additions to boost tourism.
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In the area for a while? Follow me to some of Louisville’s landmark icons, its Grave Delights, to Whiskey Row/Bourbon District, and the NuLu District.

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