Louisville’s most trendy and upcoming district is called New Louisville, or NuLu for short.
NuLu boundaries are east of I-65 along Main Street to Chestnut Street, and south about four blocks to Jefferson Street.
It is located slightly east of downtown’s Whiskey Row/Bourbon District along a five-block stretch of East Market Street, hence its previous but less fashionable name as the East Market District.
In the late 1700s and 1800s, this area was chock full of local vendors, ‘smiths, and stockyards, and it was a popular spot for illegal horse races.
Within a few decades it became dilapidated, residents were displaced, and interstates were built elsewhere driving entrepreneurs to greener pastures.
The area sat in shambles until revitalization efforts began in the 1990s. Unfortunately the ones doing that work crossed the line over into gentrification, leading to a protest in 2020 where residents and community leaders demanded policy change, affordable housing, and support for minorities and minority-owned businesses.
Today it is continuously expanding and improving, further building on the new NuLu name, incorporating as many “Lou Lou” and “NuLu” additions to its murals and businesses as possible.
NuLu is definitely the district for shopping, wandering around aimlessly, and following your nose to whatever delicious foods or surprises await you down each alley and every new storefront. I am just going to mention some of the places we enjoyed most.
I love that two of the main alleys here are called Nanny Goat Strut and Billy Goat Strut.
The Thomas Edison House was my first pick on our to do list. It is located in the historic Butchertown neighbourhood that is one of the oldest in Louisville, and its original “meat packing” district. It is, more or less, a residential area that is typically grouped together with NuLu.
You may have heard of Bloody Monday in 1855, one of the region’s goriest attacks on immigrants, when Protestant, nationalist “gangs” sought out German Catholic immigrants and left nearly two dozen dead. The city had historic plaques up about it until recently.
If you look closely, you will see references to Butchertown all over NuLu/Butchertown like Butchertown Brewing, Butchertown Market, Butchertown Grocery & Café, and in its murals.
Thomas Edison moved to Louisville in 1866 when he was 19 years old and lived in this small brick house in Butchertown.
Some of his earliest experiments did not go so well, leading up to a sulphuric acid spill that ruined the floors of the home, causing him to not only have to move but to get fired from his job.
It would be another 16 years until he became the master of innovation and invention, presenting the world with his light bulb.
The Thomas Edison House museum has a collection of historic items about Edison, his personal life, his invention history, and some that are specific to his time living in this house and in Louisville.
We spent some time chatting with the docent and he gave us some fantastic recommendations about other places to check out while in town.
La Bodeguita is where we had one of the most decadent Cuban feasts of our lives.
We both love Cuban food and the vibrant colours of La Bodequita really got our attention as soon as we pulled onto Market Street.
The decor is rich and cozy, full of maps and guitars and framed cultural artifacts of Cuba.
We love how classy the lamps and seating are, tucked behind thick velvet or satin drapes, backlit with pinks and reds, with everything accented in gold. This is such a lovely place.
We shared the Croquetas, similar to crispy-fried Papas Rellenas but with ham and chicken. These are served with cilantro aioli and a roasted red pepper sour cream.
I ordered the Masas de Puerca, slow-roasted mojo pork that is fried crisp and served with onions, a savoury congris, and fried plantains.
My friend had the classic Cubano that instantly made me jealous. Luckily we share our meals, so we each got to try a little of everything. The Cubano here is so good that we took another one home for later.
For dessert she ordered a Cortadito, similar to the Spanish Cortado, but served with a slice of sugar cane for sweetness. She let me try it, and it was divine.
Check out the gorgeous tropical bar at the back side of the restaurant too.
Quills Coffee and Butchertown Bakery were both super cute, but Please & Thank You Coffee Shop won my heart.
They brag about having the best chocolate chip cookie in Louisville and they are not fuckin’ around.
We loved their coffee, oatmeal cream pies, and even the logo that shows a cup of coffee and a cookie holding hands like the best friends they are.
Speaking of BFFs, Cured Restaurant & Salumeria is not immediately next to Cultured Cheese & Charcuterie but should be. Make sure you visit both, just a couple blocks apart on Main Street, to make your picnic shopping or date night gatherings complete.
Forme Millinery Co. is next door and it was such a fun stop.
The hat shop is owned by Jenny Pfanenstiel who is known for her high-end Derby hats and fascinators. She is the official millinery for the Kentucky Derby Museum and is often a featured millinery for Keeneland Racecourse.
We learned that she has made custom hats for Madonna, Michelle Obama, and even Neil Diamond, which thrilled me to my innermost core.
If vintage is your thing, be sure to also check out Sugar Town Vintage on Shelby Street.
Peace of the Earth and Mahonia were two more shops we loved most.
Rabbit Hole Distillery, Goodwood Brewing, Akasha Brewing, Local Seltzery, and other pubs are thriving in NuLu.
I have to include more than one photo of the Rabbit Hole sign because it changes as you drive/walk by or look at it from different angles and this kept me occupied for more than a fair share of time.
Wander the alleys near Taj and Gertie’s and look out for speakeasies and selfie spots.
Follow them to the West Sixth Brewery courtyard that hosts an outdoor beer garden, food trucks, pop-up shops and events along with a few other businesses like Emmy Squared.
It was hot and downpouring during much of our visit to the NuLu district and we plan to go back soon to take more photos of how all the lovely outdoor spaces and street art.
Even on an icky day, there is so much to do and see in NuLu. That may even be the best time to visit all the shops.
I enjoyed hunting down as many Julep statues as I can find, much like the bears of Berlin or horses in other parts of Kentucky. Each one is different and curated by a different artist. Just one of those quirky things about the neighbourhood that I appreciate.
In the area for a while? Follow me to some of Louisville’s other cool neighbourhoods like Historic Old Louisville, Whiskey Row, some of its historic hotels and waterfront, or to Cave Hill Cemetery.
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© Fernwehtun, 2015- Current. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Fernwehtun and Fernwehtun.com with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
© Fernwehtun, 2015- Current. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Fernwehtun and Fernwehtun.com with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
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