Fernweh, An Ache for Distant Places

A fire broke out up in the mountains right as I rolled into Hot Springs, North Carolina. I pulled over near the Visitor Center to have a look.

Three good ol’ boys, young and red-faced, ran out of Gentry Hardware store hootin’ and hollerin’, as you say in the South. 

They nearly knocked me over as they jumped into the old pick-up truck in the space next to mine and revved the engine. One of them just barely made it into the truck bed before the driver sped off toward the pillar of smoke rising from the trees.

A firetruck sounded its way past, a minute or two later, but the boys beat them to it. 

I watched soot and ash hang the backdrop of the town. 

As I perused a few tables at the pop-up farmers market, a man in faded overalls who had been cruising around on a lawnmower kept pace with my walk.

He hollered at me about some folks selling ‘maters and honey around the corner, just in case I did not find what I was looking for there. I suppose he was doing a bit of grassroots promoting. 

I pointed upward and asked if he knew about that fire yet. He froze for a second, looked up, then sped off on the mower toward it.

Hot Springs is a small, friendly town in western North Carolina that is famous, as you might guess, for its natural hot mineral springs. I usually stop in for coffee traveling to and from visiting a friend in Marshall, so I have become well acquainted with the tiny downtown.

Bridge Street is the main drag, especially the short segment between Spring Street and Andrews Avenue. 

Sometimes the town can seem empty, but you will almost always see Appalachian Trail hikers stretching, or stretched out, all over the streets.

Hot Springs can be just as ornery as it is charming, depending on the season. 

This land was first inhabited by the Cherokee and other Native People until white folk forcefully took over in the late 1700s. Europeans named the settlement Warm Springs and quickly turned it into a resort, capitalizing on the healing properties of this natural wonder in the middle of the Pisgah National Forest.

The Warm Springs Hotel opened in 1837 but burned down in 1884. That same year, even warmer springs were discovered so the town was renamed Hot Springs. Fair enough.

A series of hotels opened and reopened after that. The new and improved Mountain Park Hotel opened in 1886 but business dwindled at the start of WWI.

It was eventually taken over by the US government and used as an internment camp. 

I knocked back a couple of beers at Spring Creek Tavern while reading the new book I picked up at Bluff Mountain Outfitters called The German Invasion of Western North Carolina; A Pictorial History by Jacqueline Burgin Painter. 

In the book, I learned about the history of Hot Springs, its mineral springs and hotels, and even more about its usage as an internment camp.

US Soldiers turned the once opulent and luxurious hotel into a village to make life bearable for themselves, for their families, and for captured “noncombatant” German and Italian POWS. 

The internment camp lasted for about a year or so between 1917-1918, mostly for Germans. Many of them became close friends with American soldiers and civilians living in Hot Springs, and some even stayed behind once the war ended. 

I feel like the title of the book is intentionally misleading and feeds into tiresome American fears of Germans, though it was rich and interesting.

Western North Carolina was not invaded by Germans; German prisoners of war and civilians were brought in by Americans and held there. 

Regardless, I moved on to Big Pillow Brewing and settled in to keep reading. 

Big Pillow Brewing was Hot Springs’ first craft brewery and they have trivia, karaoke, live music, and game nights all throughout the week. I really enjoy the vibe they have, and there is plenty of space outside. 

Last time I went, the Grey Eagle Taqueria was open. They share Big Pillow’s courtyard so you can order from both counters and sit anywhere.

Hot Springs Resort and Spa sits where the internment camp was.

My friends and I have stayed at the Hot Springs Campground near the resort and camped right along the French Broad River. We went tubing a few times, but lord, that is another story. 

Be sure to reserve some relaxation time in a private spring, which you can do with or without an overnight stay at the resort.

Bluff Mountain Outfitters not only has a great selection of books like the one I purchased, but trail maps, field guides, and historic references too. 

You can find snacks, clothing, and gear for hiking, camping, fishing, or any other outdoor activity. 

Stop by Trailside Bakery & Café for a cup of coffee, a savory quiche, a cinnamon bun, or any of their other fresh baked treats. 

Update as of November 2025, this place is closed. Fingers crossed for a reopening!

 

For lunch or dinner, visit the Iron Horse Station or Smoky Mountain Diner.

If you prefer gathering supplies for a picnic or a meal to-go, Vaste Riviere Provisions is a small artisan grocery shop for essentials and vacation splurges.

ArtiSun Gallery & Café is my favourite place in Hot Springs. 

They have an enormous and diverse collection of local and regional art of all mediums including jewelry, ornate skulls, painted canvases, clothing, postcards, driftwood, carvings, books, and crocheted pieces. 

After Hurricane Helene devastated the town, it relocated to the other end of the highway but it is just a short walk or drive. The space is much smaller and they are still restoring their collection of art for sale after the hurricane.

I always look forward to browsing the aisles while waiting for my coffee or tea. These photos are from their previous location.

They have a sister store called Of Wand & Earth in the next town of Marshall.

Check out the Poetry Wall in the back hallway that has become a collection of miscellany over the years. 

Hot Springs Public Library serves as a community center. 

In addition to borrowing books and utilizing their technology and internet resources, you can count on their poster boards for events, public announcements, and other info. 

I love to cross the Old Red Bridge over Spring Creek, and wander toward Mountain Magnolia Inn.  

This really is one of the best spots to take photos or chill by the creek. 

You can book an event or an overnight stay there, but if you don’t act like a fool, they do not mind visitors going for a quiet walk on their grounds.

Hot Springs is surrounded by so much natural beauty and attractions like the Appalachian Trail, Pisgah National Forest, Paint Rock, Rich Laurel Wildlife Area, Max Patch, Rich Mountain/Fire Tower, Lovers Leap Trail, Mount Mitchell State Park, and more. 

Be sure to take your time driving along the French Broad River, pull off safely at overlooks, or have a picnic. 

This is my favourite spot along the river. Maybe you can find it, too. 

In the area for a while? Follow me to the nearby towns of Marshall, Mars Hill, Spruce Pine, Little Switzerland, or Weaverville. 

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