I’ve been restless.

O Lungo Drom has welled up inside me like a wave, and we all know that when the water draws back suddenly from the shore, you need to run. This sensation both haunts and instigates much of what I do.

I spend a lot of time exploring by myself and I love it, but the need to GO! GO! GO! has become a neurosis. Usually in those most listless times, I feel like I am meant to be searching for something in Spirit, and when I find it… *chef kiss*

Since my first trip to Marshall I have continued to make one serendipitous connection after another, and still do few years later, so I am always anticipating my next return.

If you have seen the show The Peripheral, this will all look familiar.

Oh, you should have heard me squeal with glee every time the camera panned out over the French Broad River and the bridge, or when I spotted a friend acting as an extra.

Marshall’s iconic Madison County Court House is featured in the show and was built in 1907 by Richard Sharp Smith, the same guy who constructed the Biltmore.

The big house up on the hill behind it is called the Marshall House Inn and it has been standing even longer than the courthouse. You can catch some pretty great views of downtown and the river from up there.

Marshall is a small mountain town in western North Carolina with a river flowing through it, the defining characteristics of many of the places I love the most. I adore this town.

Downtown Marshall stretches along the eastern bank of the French Broad River, and its Main Street underlines a steep hill that seems to nearly topple into the water. It has, in the past.

Marshall is part of the greater Asheville MSA, though Asheville proper is about 20 miles away. It has less than 700 residents within its 3.8 square miles.

Several historic sites have been encompassed by the National Register of Historic Places, including the Madison County Court House, Marshall High School, and the entire Main Street Historic District. 

Marshall has been described as “a block wide, a mile long, sky high, and hell deep” in many instances by its local artists and writers. William D. Auman’s novel titled If Trees Could Testify and Calvin Edney’s painting of the same name are just two examples.

North Carolina’s Worst Civil War Atrocity
Marshall served as the Confederate seat of Madison County during the Civil War, which caused an understandable amount of clashes with Union soldiers. Many residents of Marshall just could not stomach the Confederate’s stance on slavery, and often on secession, so they opted to support the Union.

To retaliate, members of the Confederacy targeted those families, refused to give them their rightful war rations, stole their personal property and farm animals, and sexually assaulted the women. Bastards.

A culmination of misfortunate events, especially when the Confederates refused to distribute salt to Union families, led to the notorious Shelton Laurel Massacre in 1863.

People of Madison County did not have much to begin with, but the Confederacy controlled the much-needed supplies like salt which allowed them to preserve their food and survive harsh winters.

In January that year, it all became too much to tolerate. My understanding is that members of several starving families in the nearby Shelton Laurel Valley broke into a salt stockpile in Marshall out of desperation to gather some salt, and a gruesome battle ensued.

Confederate soldiers were instructed to capture any male from the Shelton Laurel Valley, and while many escaped, thirteen of them were trapped and executed in cold blood.

Some of them were just young boys, and the Confederates dumped their little bodies in a shallow ditch or left them out in the elements. The murderers were never held accountable and justice was never served, which is why the Shelton Laurel Massacre is forever known as North Carolina’s worst Civil War atrocity.

A local woman known as Granny Judy is celebrated for collecting the dead and transporting them up the mountain to be buried in Shelton Cemetery. You can visit the grave marker there, and read more about the whole sitch here.

You can find a few other historical markers near the Courthouse and the Colonel Allen House, Marshall’s oldest downtown building.

North Carolina’s Flood of 1916 hit Marshall hardest of any place in the region. Only a few buildings survived, primarily the Courthouse and the Methodist Church.

Any time I read old newspaper articles like this one or this one detailing each horrific hour or day of a devastating flood, it chills me to the bone.

I have written a lot about southwestern Ohio which was utterly destroyed during the Great Flood of 1913, just three years earlier. As much as TVA has antagonized residents of the South, I am so glad they figured out how to use dams and prevent disasters like these from recurring.

Want to learn more about Marshall’s history? Check out this dystopian rabbit hole about the Zeno family and the Ponder Machine. Yikes!

So now we get to why I love modern day Marshall so much. I chose the title Bell, Book, & Candle after one of my favourite films, and because all three are significant elements of a spiritual experience.

The Bell
Of Wand & Earth is a metaphysical store; a bell ringing out to Spirit. When I first saw it, the shop was in the process of relocating from its previous site and the new one was not yet open to the public. I reached out to the owner anyways because I felt called to stop in.

She invited me to stop by that same day for a tour. I was met at the door by a carved golden peacock, what some might call my spirit animal. 

The owner and I are both obsessed with peacocks, the colours, shapes, and the symbolism. I was even more surprised when I learned her name; one that has followed me for the past decade and was a tremendous part of what now feels like a past life in Russia. 

We sat together in her temple for a while and I found myself opening up to her kind ear, knowing glances, and kindred spirit. She is a lovely human and I was so honoured to spend a little time with her.

I returned to Of Wand & Earth for the Grand Opening a few weeks later and have done my best to pop in during each subsequent trip to Marshall.

She has a constantly growing collection of herbs, teas, crystals, books, decor, and tools to connect with Spirit in her shop, and you could spend hours admiring it all.

Two Brooms is the in-house tea shop, serving up herbs and spices from the most reputable sources like Mountain Rose Herbs and other companies I personally buy from to make my own tea and herbal medicine.

There is a sister store in Hot Springs called Artisun about 20 minutes away.

The Book
When I first visited the French Broad Exchange, I was delighted to find a huge collection of USSR and Soviet books, memorabilia, posters, trinkets, instruments, you name it.

I struck up a conversation with the gentleman who owns it and we expressed our shared love of Russian literature and culture, as I traced my fingers over these relics. 

Not too long ago, I spent three years in a somethingship with a Russian, who has the same name as the owner of OW&E. Every aspect of my life back then was flooded with Russian reserve, culture, music, literature, history, and constant pragmatic dismissal.

Speaking Russian on a daily basis and spending time in Russia changed me on a level I still probably have not fully come to terms with yet. This time also led me nearer to my love of other Slavic and Balkan worlds, as I soon learned more and more about the many intricate ties.

I spent a long time grieving that I had to disconnect from that personal gateway to the Motherland, and looking back, I realised that was the bulk of what I was processing during that first visit to Marshall. It had nothing to do with Marshall itself, but somehow the Universe knew what I was feeling and kept sending me small comforts.

I snapped back from my thoughts when I saw, front and center of the main shelf,  a newly arrived copy of Everything is Illuminated by Jonathan Safran Foer.

The film is full of oddly comical moments and stars one of my favourite musicians but the book, the full story, will break your heart. Its setting is in Ukraine and involves a great deal of Soviet history and references as well.

It seemed that Spirit was telling me that it was safe to revisit some old chapters with fondness. There, of all places.

Side note:  I learned that the moon phase during my very first visit was Sabian, described as “travelling a narrow path seeking illumination, and the personal need for transcendental realms of reality.”

That could explain why I was vibing so hard.

The Candle
If you are lucky, you meet people while traveling (and being alive in general) who bring light, insight, and humour into your life. Some may be fleeting, and some may be twin flames.

Subjective as it is, my “candle” and favourite place in Marshall is the literal and metaphorical home of a close friend. This kind, clever, and brilliant human has co-created an intimate familiarity with me that is so special and unique.

I always enjoy listening to his anecdotes about Marshall and all of the smalltown bs I would otherwise remain blissfully oblivious to as a mere visitor.

I have met several wonderful people in this town and have been invited into their homes and sacred spaces, and I know this is yet another reason Marshall is so endearing to me.

Some other cool humans I have become acquainted with are the masterminds behind Downtown Wasteland / Wasteland Bones, a natural art and aspiring taxidermy collective. Being invited to check out what goes on behind the scenes there was another great honour.

We chatted about how much they enjoy the process of decomposition and maintaining their beetle colony, the tiny beings that do the real dirty work. They enjoy when artists share the more human side of their work and how they do it, and I take pleasure  in the videos they share on their socials, but those are not for the faint of heart.

My Anthro degree and two years working in the UT Decomposition Facility known around the world as the “Body Farm” has instilled a strong tolerance for the organic grotesque and an intrigue with death processes.

Not much sets my brain gears in motion like a nice pile of bones.

They advised me that all of the organic materials they use are already dead when they find them, or given to them by others who found them after they were already deceased.

Ethically-sourced is not just a buzz word or something they strive for, it is the starting point of all that they do.

Most of their projects are centered around decorative skulls, bone jewelry, and leatherworks but they are slowly and steadily expanding on their own terms, with loads of local support.

The Wind Phone
Unlike the giant oak tree in my yard at home, there is a public place for speaking with loved ones and burying grief in Marshall.

Susan Vetrone’s installation, The Wind Phone, looks like a normal telephone booth from the outside but she invites visitors to step in and say their peace.

The Wind Phone serves as a place to pour your grief and whisper your sadness; to say everything you weren’t able to before.

There is a note inside that says “We are so sorry for your loss that brought you here” which can either feel like a kick to the gut or a welcome embrace.

Update: Recently, the owners of the property issued an open request to writers/influencers and the like to stop providing the exact physical address of the Wind Phone online, as it attracts visitors that their neighbours are not thrilled about.

I began writing this blog a few years ago and am just now getting around to publishing it, so while I still want to mention and honour the work of Susan Vetrone, I absolutely want to honour the landowner’s wishes as well.

The Rest of It
There are so many other great places to visit in Marshall. Historic downtown runs parallel to the river and the railroad tracks, and there is a large wooden sign on either end that welcomes you or bids you farewell.

You really can not get lost here, so just park somewhere and start walking.

Zuma Coffee & Provisions just celebrated their 20th year open for business in Marshall. My go to is a plain hot latte, but I really go crazy on a spicy chai or mocha whenever I am here. They have great bagels and a lively space full of natural light.

On Your Bike is the newest breakfast/brunch spot and I love it.

The building has had a bike service and repair shop in it for years, but learning that they recently opened a cafe inside was pretty exciting.

I had a latte and a pesto chicken panini for breakfast and could not have been happier.

They are super welcoming to dogs and I loved watching a few sweet pups come in for a treat with their parents. This cutie absolutely won my heart.

I can’t ride a bike, or at least I haven’t really tried after a bad wreck I had as a child. I skinned my face, arms, and knees off, and that was enough for me.

I still like the whole aesthetic, and I especially enjoy places where you can multi-task with your dog in tow. Checks all the boxes.

Main Street Cafe is where you get home-style cooking and “rib stickers” like fried potatoes, biscuits, and gravy. They seem to sear the insides of the biscuits on the griddle so they have a nice crunch to them, just like the potatoes.

I noticed that they have added a selection of vegan and vegetarian items to the menu pretty recently, keeping up with their patrons.

Main Street Cafe used to be the Rock Cafe in the 1940s and also served as a Greyhound Station. I prefer to sit outside, as the patio overlooks Main Street on one side and the Courthouse on the other.

Sweet Monkey is a tiny little place with a limited menu and no seating, but that could just be another economic side effect of the ‘rona.

I love their coffee and the cheesy pepperoni croissants.

Madison Natural Foods is an organic grocery that I wish I had at the end of my own block.

I try to make a point to stop in and buy some tea blends or snacks any time I am in town.

They have so many locally-made bath and body products, gifts, and an awesome grab-and-go cooler.

Grateful Organic Diner was formerly the CBD Cafe, recently rebranded with vibrant colours, a name change, and a spicier selection of products after cannabis became legalized there.

They have a plentiful menu and I have definitely purchased my share of their housemade peanut butter and hot sauces. A regular schedule of regional bands, comedians, and artists keeps the place hopping.

Star Diner looks much like the other old buildings in historic downtown from the outside, and it may not even catch your attention at first. What you might think is a kitschy old diner will really surprise you.

Star is the top pick for finer dining in Marshall and the surrounding area, and is known for steaks and seafood.

The patio is covered, shaded, and has commercial space heaters for the rainy or chilly days, so it is perfect for all weather.

I like the 1920s era gas station signs and classic cars parked strategically around the place too.

The menu changes frequently and is a mashup of classy Southern favourites and European delicacies.

I had a crispy chicken sandwich with caramelized onions and a Dijon style mustard sauce, and mixed pickled veggies. It was delish.

My friend just told me about their beet salad with cashew pesto and now it is all I can think about.

And that Maine Lobster Linguini… woof.

MadCo Brew House opened in 2016 and was the first brewery in all of Madison County.

Friends from nearby towns are always happy to meet up with me there when I am visiting, and we like the place a lot.

The back deck overlooks the river, which is just beautiful. They also have a great selection of beer and the pizza is fire.

Mal’s Bar, like Artist Kitchen, is a place I hear nothing but excellent things about but have yet to make it inside, with so many other things going on. I will be sure to update this part after my next visit.

Marshall Depot is the home of Friday night jams sessions and dances, and other special occasion events.

The old depot building is an original Southern Rail Depot, operated until 1970s when passenger service stopped through town.

The Old Marshall Jail Hotel is a new business in an old building, with a most interesting past.

The Marshall Jail was built in 1905 and was in continuous use until 2012, making it the most lengthy jail operation in North Carolina.

You could only imagine the stories its walls could tell, and that was a driving theme of the boutique hotel’s development.

Local folk donated a plethora of newspaper clippings, photos, historical documents, and relics that have been framed or put on display to share stories of the old jail.

You can see from the photos that various textiles and materials were incorporated into the borders and even table tops.

Many of the original structures like call windows, telephones, metal bars, radiators, furniture, and raw materials remain in the building to give a truly authentic feel, toned down by more modern additions and comforts.

Guests of the hotel and the public are all welcome to enjoy drinks in the lounge or out on the patio overlooking the French Broad, along with meals picked up at Zadie’s Market & Deli.

The brick-lined patio is rustic and fun, and I am drawn back to this spot over and over.

In the early mornings, I like to sit with my coffee and gaze out at the river.

Community Bricks is a collective art project using salvaged bricks from the original jail that were kept after renovation.

Friends and family of the owners, who also own a flower shop and pottery studio, were invited along with everyone else in Marshall to come and imprint their own brick with an expression or design.

The bricks were then used to create the walkway and exterior of the Old Marshall Jail Hotel.

It is a lot of fun to read each of the bricks and spot the ones my friend made.

Heilbron Herbs has a tiny storefront that boasts their handmade, small batch herbal tinctures and medicines.

I am an herbalist myself and love supporting other herbalists, so I pick up a bottle or two of something each time I visit.

You can watch the gals at work behind the sales counter, and they are always happy to answer questions and talk about their amazing products and processes.

Flow is a vibrant art studio, gallery, and retail space that is constantly changing up their exhibits and items for sale.

One of the owners told me about how excited the collective was to have just celebrated their tenth year.

After many changes of ownership, she is the only one who has been there the entire time.

She also told me about one of the artists who paints skulls, and I was impressed to learn that he has some work on display in the Smithsonian.

Do not mistake this place for a small town store with basic or boring art!

Main Street is full of old time shops, stock and feed supplies, general stores, antiques, oddities, thrift, and vintage.

There is a little something for all types.

Murals have been creeping up over the last couple years, which are always a delightful surprise to me.

Blannahasset Island
Follow the bridge across the river to Blannahassett Island, where you can visit Marshall High Studios, Capitola Mill Spa, have a picnic in the park, or fish off the riverbanks.

Terra Sylva School of Botanical Medicine, where I plan to take a course in the future, is over there also.

Other places to check out is the Bowman-Rector Cemetery high on top of the mountain. It started in the 1950s and is a quiet, peaceful, clean place to enjoy some solitude.

Some of the roads out in Madison County are wild and curvy, especially between Hot Springs and Marshall. I have a blast driving that route, and it’s the kind of driving you have to do with your whole body.

If you feel like venturing outside of downtown a bit, take Hayes Run Road up to Smith Hollow Road, and follow that to Highway 70. From downtown, it is just three left turns in a five-minute trek.

There is a tiny coffee shop in an old gas station on Highway 70 called Highland Station that serves a great latte and has a collection of local goods for sale. They are very emphatic about supporting local and I feel the same way.

Marshall is known for its Annual Mermaid Parade, Marshall Gras, and its monthly Third Thursday crawls.

Marshall and Madison County as a whole is home of the Barn Trail, but despite frequent misquotes and misinformation, this is not the same Madison County where the Bridges of Madison County takes place. That’s in Iowa, y’all. Quit it.

Marshall is between Cherokee National Forest and Pisgah National Forest, just an hour drive from the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, and an hour and a half drive from Grandfather Mountain. It is just minutes from Max Patch and Paint Rock, and so many other natural wonders.

For horseback riding, rafting, and outdoor excursions, check out Sandy Bottom Trail Rides and French Broad Adventures, or #treatyourself at the Capitola Mill spa.

With every place I visit and write about, I try to understand the local culture and perspective on tourism and I do my best to travel responsibly and ethically.

Before publishing this blog, I did a quick search for recent Marshall travel guides and noticed there is such a huge focus on all the newest places in town, but a bit of disdain or even avoidance of mentioning the old town staples.

Many articles talk about how Marshall is experiencing growing pains from all the newness, with emphasis on the term “New Marshall,” and several mention opposition from longtime residents.

A long time ago, I read that Marshall was once described as the “town that can not grow” by a writer for the Ripley’s Believe It Or Not enterprise, but I disagree.

I think the terrain is rugged and stubborn as hell, like all things Appalachian. There is not much land available for geographic growth or commercial development or sprawling housing additions that has not already been carved into on the side of the mountain, but the usage of its structures continues to grow and evolve.

I think the people who work hard to create something beautiful in the existing historic buildings do a fantastic job providing the services and diverse environments that residents need.

My impression is that the people who have lived here for generations or even their entire lives have constantly had to grow and adapt to the land, the economy, and a changing society, and that the growing pains are caused more by outsiders who seem to think Marshall needs someone to rush in and save it.

I have heard so much support and praise from locals for the new businesses in town, darkened only by comments about bad behaviour and disrespect from tourists and some newcomers that we call carpetbaggers around these parts.

A healthy dose of skepticism and ambition can be an excellent catalyst for change, but one should make sure the people they set out to help actually want it.

Visit Marshall, have the time of your life, but do try to act like somebody while you’re there, and not someone that sucks.

In the area for a while? Follow me to Mars Hill and Hot Springs (in progress).

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