Fernweh, An Ache for Distant Places

CLEVELAND, TENNESSEE
Cleveland is a small and charming city in Bradley County, just 20 minutes from Chattanooga and super close to the TN/GA state line.

I spent the majority of this year half-living in Cleveland and I have spent more time there than most other places I have written about, so I know it quite well.

It did not take long for Cleveland to grow on me, to find my favourite restaurants, to make acquaintances in local groups, to get to know the names of the people who owned or worked in businesses, and to recognize them at the famers market.

You will likely find that Cleveland quickly grows on you, too.

GATEWAY TO THE CHEROKEE NATION
Cleveland is the largest city in Bradley County, what was once the official Gateway to the Cherokee Nation. You can read my blog about that here.

In recent years, people of Bradley County have developed a symbolic passport and travel guide for visitors called the Passport to the Cherokee Nation to honour the Cherokee and to highlight some of the area’s most significant historical sites.

Bradley County Historical & Genealogy Society is another wonderful resource for history of Cleveland and the Cherokee.

FOUNDING HISTORY
Cleveland was founded as a city in 1842, seven years after the Treaty of New Echota robbed the Cherokee of this land.

Cleveland was named after Revolutionary War soldier Benjamin Cleveland (depicted above in First Street Square) who then named the county after one of the State of Tennessee’s founding fathers.

Colonel Cleveland fought in the Battle of Kings Mountain with General George Washington, future President of the USA. 

Taylor’s Place, now the site of Taylor Spring Park, became the Cleveland’s first settlement. It was named after its first settler, Andrew Taylor, who owned most of the land from 1819 through the 1840s.

Lumber and leather tanning became the first major industries in Cleveland, followed by the railroad and trade.

Well known companies like Cleveland Caskets, Milne Chairs, and Hardwick Stoves all started in Cleveland.

Below is a portion of the former Bohemian Theatre at 150 N Ocoee Street and First Street. 

CLEVELAND BRADLEY COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY
Cleveland’s public library is actually a reconstruction of a main building and two former residential homes, the Hardwick-Jarnagin House and Carmichael House. 

While most of the library’s collection is contained within the main building, its History Branch is offset in the historic Craigmiles House across the street.

CRAIGMILES HOUSE
This lovely Italianate home was built in 1866 for Pleasant and Caroline Craigmiles, and it has been on the National Register of Historic Places in 1975.

It has three stories and featured large lawns, a pool, tennis courts, and intricate design features that made it the ideal place for community events and socials back when there were only about 1600 residents in Cleveland. 

W. S. Milne purchased the home in 1907, and sold it in 1914 to John A. Sneed. Sneed’s widow sold it to her brothers, the Johnston Brothers, who donated the home to the city for use as a library.

I mention all of their surnames because you will likely notice various aspects of Cleveland that have been named in their honour.

The Craigmiles House served as Cleveland’s library for nearly sixty five years before the new, modern building across the street opened to the public as the new Cleveland Bradley County Public Library. It is also known as the Johnson Tucker Center. 

I am sharing the photo below from VisitClevelandTN.com:

CRAIGMILES FAMILY & LEGACY
The Craigmiles Family Legacy extends far beyond facilitating the county library. 

Pleasant was a prominent banker and businessman in Cleveland, and with the use of his home as a community center, he and his wife were well connected and admired by their neighbours. 

Pleasant’s brother, John, became wealthy during the Gold Rush when he created his shipping and trade empires. The two brothers were essentially royalty in Bradley County. 

John and his wife Adelia married in 1859, and their lives were wracked with tragedy.

Their only son died within a few hours of his birth, and their only daughter Nina died in 1871 at the age of seven.

Nina and her grandfather were riding in a carriage when a train appeared without warning and crushed them.

John died suddenly in 1899 from a fall and subsequent infection. Adelia was struck and killed by a car in 1928. 

CRAIGMILES MAUSEOLEUM
After Nina’s death, John commissioned a mausoleum to secure her remains. He spent today’s equivalent of more than half a million dollars to create the Gothic monument with Italian Carrera marble. 

The exact date is unknown, but a dark red spot began creeping over an arch in the pure and sparkling white marble. Segments of the affected marble were scrubbed furiously and replaced altogether, but nothing could stop it.

Legend says that the “blood” is symbolic of the tragic deaths all four members of this Craigmiles family unit suffered. All four of their bodies are buried inside the mausoleum together. 

Various websites list the mausoleum and its bleeding phenomenon as one of the Creepiest Places in Tennessee, attracting visitors (much like myself) to stand in front of it and stare at the unexplainable.

Crews of scientists and geologists have tried to justify the appearance of “blood” by chemical reactions over time, but none can determine why it comes back in the exact same spot, every time, with every new segment of replaced marble. 

On Easter Sunday each year, officials of St. Luke’s Episcopal Church open the door to the mausoleum, but otherwise it stays sealed. 

ST. LUKE’S EPISCOPAL CHURCH
John and Adelia also donated the funds to build St. Luke’s Episcopal Church and the courtyard where the mausoleum sits.

The church is on the National Register of Historic Places and was built in the Oxford Movement style, one of the few still standing in such excellent condition.

It is said to have been named after St. Luke because Nina died on St. Luke’s Day.

Earliest members were from a faction of St. Alban’s congregation who did not have a tangible place of worship until St. Luke’s was completed.

CRAIGMILES HALL / OPERA HOUSE
Pleasant Craigmiles’ son Walter, which makes him John’s nephew, commissioned the construction of Craigmiles Hall & Opera House in 1878.

This gorgeous Second Empire style building remained under family ownership until 1896 when J. E. Johnston and others purchased it and installed a pharmacy on the first (ground) floor.

Over time, more businesses filled that space below the Opera House that occupied the second floor. Craigmiles Hall & Opera House fast became the new social center, and is still the most iconic building in Cleveland.

Composer and musician Philip Sousa famously composed “The Diplomat” and performed it for the first time at Craigmiles Hall over a century ago. Cleveland has adopted “The Diplomat” as its official City Song. 

Other investors purchased the Craigmiles Hall in 1948, in 1973, in 1979, and again in 1993. It has been listed on the National Register of Historic Places since 1980 and is now home to Lasater’s Coffee, a regional company with several franchises in Tennessee and Kentucky. 

TIPTON-FILLAUER HOUSE
Unrelated to the Craigmiles family, the Queen Anne style Tipton-Fillauer House was also built using Italian marble, as well as oak. 

William Tipton was the owner and editor of the Cleveland Herald for over thirty years. He had the house built in 1890.

Will and John Fillauer purchased the home in 1924 and it was eventually passed onto W. K. Fillauer, a lawyer who became the mayor of Cleveland during the 1960s.

He had the home added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1980.

LEE UNIVERSITY
Lee University is a “Christian Liberal Arts” College which is just funny on its own.

I am including Lee University in the historic homes and buildings section because its campus and architectural is lovely. 

Among Lee University’s celebrity alumni is Creed vocalist Scott Stapp who was kicked out for smoking weed, as well as Barney Smith, the famous master plumber, toilet-seat artist, and museum curator. 

My father is a master plumber and business owner (not in Cleveland) known for his creativity in designing plumbing-themed art and parade floats just as much as his skill in plumbing and practical construction, so I was especially pleased to learn about Barney Smith.

As you drive around Lee University, check out the homes and gardens surrounding the campus.

MUSEUMS, ART, & MUSIC
Speaking of art, Cleveland has a thriving art and culture scene. 

MUSEUM CENTER AT 5IVE POINTS is the most well-known and well-funded hub, with a mission to share the story of the Ocoee Region, which overlaps Hiwassee/Cleveland/Cherokee Nation territory.

Outside in the front lawn, there is a sculpture by Peter Wolf Toth from his Trail of Whispering Giants collection. Toth sculpted one of these in each US State and a few in Canada, depicting Native Americans specific to the region where they are located.

Not many have survived time, weather, and transport, but this one is in excellent condition. 

You can find artifacts and relics from Cleveland, Bradley County, and Cherokee heritage within the museum. 

The gift shop has a large selection of local art and area souvenirs.

Children’s programs, educational courses, arts and crafts activities, musical performances, lectures, festivals, and other events have kept this place hopping since 1999.

Being the mural hound that I am, I have to say that the most exciting feature of the museum for me is the giant one on its exterior. 

The mural project was led by artist Hollie Berry and her assembled crew.

It features a hellbender, alligator gar, alligator snapping turtle, a copperhead snake, lake sturgeon, longear sunfish, and other critters that live in the freshwater rivers, lakes, and streams of East Tennessee. 

It covers the entire exterior of the building and is so large, it is difficult to get one clear photo. You really just have to go see it in person to catch every detail. 

The Back Alley Gallery that used to operate across from Cleveland Coffee has permanently closed, but the alley itself is still home to many murals.

New ones continue to pop up from time to time, so grab a coffee and stroll down the alley to check them out.

ART HOUSE PROJECT is an amazing organization that operates out of Hetzel Gallery. The non-profit offers studio and lab space for budding artists to learn new skills and explore their interests and regularly holds classes, demonstrations, and community events. 

I do not know a great deal about local music or bands in Cleveland except that there is a performer with no social media who goes by Darth Brooks and sometimes the Darth Brooks Trio. They play at Inman Social sometimes, but never on a night that I am physically able to be there. 

Be on the lookout for Darth Brooks shows, and other art and murals around Cleveland. 

EAT & DRINK LIKE A LOCAL
For coffee and baked goods, there are several options like Urban Leaf Tea, Gardener’s Market, Ocoee Coffee, Boba House, Cleveland Coffee, BonLife, First Bloom, and Ruddles.

RUDDLES BREAD & BOOK is my favourite. Do yourself a favour, and get a hot drink and one of their giant cookies before you peruse the bookshelves. 

Outside, Ruddles has a spacious patio facing First Street Square. It is the absolute perfect hangout on Saturdays during the Farmers Market. 

CLEVELAND COFFEE & MARKET is located at the back end of High Point Climbing, but has its own entrance. It has a nice vibe and I love that they also offer browsing and shopping opportunities while you sip. 

FIRST BLOOM is a beautiful cafe inside the historic Old Woolen Mill, a relic of Cleveland’s bygone textile industry.

Even if you do not consider yourself a bagel afficionado, these are irresistible. 

 

You can visit Southern Grace Boutique, Bluebird Violin Studio, the Weaver’s Room, and Cleveland City Ballet while you are at the Old Woolen Mill factory. 

BONLIFE COFFEE is a cool space that focuses on sustainability and fair trade, and they always have local art and accessories on display. 

VILLAGE BAKE SHOP is a cute little bakery by Inman Social that can satisfy whatever your sweet tooth is craving. 

The kids were so excited over every single treat that it took about two months for them to stop asking if I had any more cake pops every time I walked into the house.

BISKIT NV still have not updated their online presence after relocating earlier this year. Google says they are permanently closed at 2538 Keith Street but fails to mention that they are thriving at 270 S Ocoee Street.

Snag a table by the door and watch as dozens of people all join in the ritual of driving by slowly, looking confused, stopping their car to see if this is actually the new location, an employee walking out and directing them to park, then waiving them in. 

I can not decide if I wish they would update their listings and get a real sign already, or to keep things as they are so I can continue to slip in and get my delicious breakfast fix without an even larger crowd.

These “biskits” are to die for. 

GOLDEN YOLK is another slammin’ breakfast spot in Cleveland. The interior is bright and sunny like the name implies, and they (like Biskit NV) know how to make Southern gravy. 

MARTHIE ANN’S TENNESSEE BLUE PLATE is known for their famous fried chicken sandwiches that come with a wild variety of toppings, including ice cream.

We tried the Korean BBQ and the Tony Bennett varieties, the latter which came with pesto, balsamic vinegar, olive oil, sundried tomatoes, and mozzarella.

PLUS ULTRA COFFEE is a anime, comic, and RPG themed coffee shop in the Bradley Square Mall. They have a very large covered patio right along the parking lot on the back, quieter side of the mall. 

You can find a matching coffee or tea shop for just about any type of vibe you are seeking in Cleveland. 

INMAN SOCIAL is one of the most elegant choices in Cleveland for date night, complete with mood lighting, good music, an expansive patio with heaters, and a variety of seating environments.

We had tuna ceviche and some focaccia with olive oil and balsamic vinegar to start.

The campanelle mushroom pasta dish with winter greens, pine nuts, butternut squash, and lemon butter was sublime, and their house favourite with Italian sausage and vodka sauce was also delicious.

I was touched by their painting of one of my most revered icons, the late Anthony Bourdain.

CAFE ROMA, like Inman Social, specializes in Italian and American favourites. 

The pasta was so wet it kept sliding off the fork and dripping on or splashing everything but I really enjoyed their fresh baked focaccia, and the chicken Parmesan was excellent. 

I would love to go back some time on a romantic date, just what this cozy place is meant for. I look forward to trying more of their pastas or one of the mouth-watering desserts I kept seeing pass by on platters. 

KUMO ASIAN GARDEN is another date night winner. The sushi is amazing and I can not help but obsess over their rainbow glitter table tops. 

Kumo is tucked away in an unassuming and scarcely advertised spot in a shopping center on Stuart Road. 

CLEVELAND NAAN HOUSE is where I have eaten the most frequently in Cleveland. Even when I all but begged to go somewhere else, anywhere else, this is where we went. 

And you know what? I was never mad about it.

I love everything I have eaten here. The quality is consistent every time, the people who own it are so kind, and I often rue the fact that it is more than an hour from where I live.

My favourite dish there is the Reshmi kabab, sometimes called Chicken Malai, depending on how you prepare it. I have had it in other restaurants called by both names. 

Typically, and as it is there, chicken is marinated in yoghurt, cilantro, lime, and spices, then grilled to utter perfection. It comes with a creamy and faintly spicy cashew sauce. 

They serve a type of naan at Cleveland Naan House called Kashmiri Naan which is pretty rare to find in the Southeastern USA.

It is distinct because it is filled with a dry mixture of roasted cherries, almonds, and cashews. 

They are masters of tikka masala and biryani as well. 

JENKINS DELI is the kind of place that is plastered with flashy memorabilia, television screens, and has a train that runs around the ceiling to keep kids entertained.

They have a solid menu of good honest food, and the restaurant is large enough to accommodate larger crowds. 

For Mexican and Latin food, my picks are El Jinete, Catrina’s, and Mexico Lindo. 

EL JINETE‘s has plenty of delicacies and reliable favourites. 

CATRINA’S BAR & GRILL has similar options, with lots of inventive additions. 

Carnitas is one of my favourite dishes and I am pleased to report that they do it well. 

MEXICO LINDO serves a mean Birria, my other favourite Mexican dish. 

CITY DINER could easily be called World Diner because they have a little something from all types of cuisine including Italian, Latin, Chinese, and Greek. 

They are open until midnight or later so if you are craving chicken wings at 9 am, breakfast at 9 pm, or maybe egg rolls with a Greek salad, they have got you covered. 

Indigo is the perfect place for vegan, vegetarians, and more health-conscious diners. Misfit Tacos, Rico Deli, and Nela’s have you covered on Mexican and Latin food.

Spoony’s, The Press, Little Diner on First, Lupi’s Pizza Pies, Catch B&G, Rebel Drive-In have also caught my eye, but I have not been able to visit as of yet.

MASH & HOPS and POKEY’S MUSIC HALL are two of the most popular low-key hangouts. 

BIG TOM’S is another hot spot after dark. 

Owners Tom and Sabrina are celebrated for their barbecue, mixed drinks, and intimate setting for live music. 

One part of the restaurant is more family-friendly during earlier hours and you can see dozens of awards Big Tom has won over the years posted up on the walls. 

Most impressively, Big Tom’s was featured on Food Network’s series, Restaurant: Impossible. In Season 18, Episode 4, Irvine helps Tom and Sabrina turn their business around and visiting it in person was an homage to their success. 

I met Sabrina and she was a riot. Sweet, lively, bubbly, energetic, and bold are just a few more ways to describe this firecracker of a woman.

She told me about how she was once stricken with a deteriorating disease that left her hopeless until someone suggested she take a shot of Jägermeister each day. Soon after she began, she was up and walking and feeling like herself again.

Because of this, she is commonly seen greeting and hugging patrons all over the bar and serving free shots of herb-infused Jägermeister so she can spread the benefits of its medicinal qualities. 

If you prefer to shop for international ingredients and cook at home, stop by the European Market and the Taste of Africa Food Market.

The owner of Taste of Africa said they do takeaway orders and some small catering orders with her homecooked food.

Here is the menu she showed me on her phone:

FARMERS ON FIRST is one of a few rotating Farmers Market in Cleveland.

This one takes place in First Street Square and is your best for buying local produce, farm fresh eggs, pasture raised meat, baked goods, personal care products, and other specialties. 

River’s Ridge Farm has a great selection of dried mushies and oyster mushroom jerky. Look at this beautiful gift box!

Nothing makes me feel more at home and like a local than meeting people at the Farmers Market and then seeing them around town as time goes on, smiling in recognition.

On that note, I keep seeing this bright blue Jeep with its rainbow mountains and Betty White bumper ornament, and we should probably be pals. 

PARKS & TRAILS
With so many delish food options in Cleveland, you should probably know which parks and trails to hit up afterward. 

RED CLAY STATE HISTORIC PARK was the last Cherokee eastern capital and council grounds, used from 1832 until 1838 when the Cherokee were forced out.

It was dedicated as the Red Clay State Historic Park in 1979 and is on the National Register or Historic Places.

The park sits on more than 260 acres and contains replicas of the council house, Cherokee farmhouses, and other structures that demonstrate what life was like for the families who lived and met here.

Red Clay State Historic Park is also a certified interpretive site on the National Historic Trail of Tears and has been on the National Register of Historic Places since 1972.

The Eternal Flame of the Cherokee Nation memorial honours the Cherokee who died during the Trail of Tears and the reunion of the Cherokee Nations eastern and western tribes in 1984.

The 0.2-mile Blue Hole Trail is essentially just the path across the lawn to the Blue Hole, and the 0.15-mile Connector Trail is the short path that leads you to the 1.7-miles Council of Trees trail.

The latter is considered moderate and leads to the Overlook Tower.

FLETCHER PARK and the CLEVELAND BRADLEY COUNTY GREENWAY are excellent for walking, biking, and mural spotting. 

Candies Creek Rolling Hills Wetlands Loop, the Gateway Park & Pavilion, Taylor Spring Park, and Deer Park are other great options.

SHOPPING
Cleveland has some really unique gift shops and boutiques.

REBELLE BEAUTY BAR is a hair salon and resale store with a good mix of styling products, enamel pins, and vintage items. 

DANDELION MERCANTILE is all about collectors, vintage, and nostalgia items. 

As you progress into the store, the types of goods diversify tremendously.

It is set up as a booth rental space where each person has their own three walls to sell their handmade or curated collection. 

Orange Blossom, Grit & Grace, Kettle Creek, Christian Rae, Elegant Creek, Lily Sabani, Vintiques, and Prior Attire, all have more upscale items and home decor. 

FESTIVALS
Cleveland has lots of festivals throughout the year that draw out the community for socializing and silliness.

Among them are the Sweet Tea & Sunshine Festival, Bacon Festival, Cleveland Apple Festival, Keg, Cork, & Barrel, Hot Slaw & Art Y’all Festival, and the Spirits, Legends, & Lore Festival.

The Hot Slaw Y’All Festival celebrates a local delicacy, hot slaw, that Cleveland residents make and sell and serve on top of everything you can imagine when the time is right. 

It is similar to what other Southerners call Chow Chow, something I just discovered for myself a few years ago.

Think of shredded cabbage, onions, and peppers mixed with mustard, mayo, and salt. Everyone makes it their own way. Most recipes use jalapeno peppers but some do not, and some use carrots and Apple Cider Vinegar, but most do not. 

There are annual juried competitions to decide whose hot slaw is best, and if you think this is just a small-town niche condiment, check out this article that the NY Times published about it. 

One of my favourite vendors that I have seen at Cleveland festivals is an artist and painter who sometimes uses vintage clothing and denim jackets as her canvas. 

SPIRITS, LEGENDS, & LORE FESTIVAL
Each October, Cleveland hosts a Halloween Block Party called the Spirits, Legends, and Lore Festival that keeps all the spooky stories fresh in the minds of each generation. 

TALL BETSY is the most popular legend. What was likely a case of a really tall woman who wore all black and just wanted to be let tf alone has somehow led to her being declared the “Official Halloween Goblin” of Bradley County in 1989. Based on that description alone, I could be Tall Betsy. 

Legend has it that Tall Betsy would come after kids who did not get home before dark, but it is not clearly stated what she did to them in most sources. While Betsy’s body is buried in the Shields Mausoleum in Fort Hill Cemetery, her Spirit is said to continue roaming the streets. Sometimes a girl just wants to go out for a walk. 

A local philantropist named Allan Jones capitalized on taunting the poor woman’s legacy by founding the annual Halloween Block Party in 2005. He arranged celebrity appearances like Little Richard and the cast of Leave it to Beaver which drew more than 30,000 attendees.

Jones is also the owner of the historic Craigmiles Hall building and the founder of a payday advance company who has invested tremendously into revitalizing the city of Cleveland and its community resources. He is described as a cross between Walt Disney and P.T. Barnum, and as a man who dives deeply into anything that catches his interest. 

The Halloween Block Party is not complete each year without an officially designated person, usually Jones or his son, dressing in costume as Tall Betsy and terrorizing the littles just as much as the grownups who feared her in their youth. 

I first heard the poem that Joyce Jones wrote about Tall Betsy on the Stabbin’ Stylist podcast last year, and took this screenshot of their Instagram post:

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Speaking of the STABBIN’ STYLIST PODCAST, these two ladies are a hoot. Both are stylists at a local salon and share a love of the spooky and strange in between hair care tips. Check out their Tall Betsy episode and others to learn more about the weirdenings of Cleveland and Bradley County.

Tall Betsy’s story was also investigated by this badass woman named Miranda that I met years ago in the Scott County Jail. I should explain by saying this was at the HISTORIC Scott County Jail, which is now a museum, and Miranda was giving us a personal tour. Some of you may know Miranda as the Ghost Biker, or her extremely popular video series called Ghost Biker Explorations.

Southern Mysteries has this special episode, and there is also a 17-minute documentary about Tall Betsy, directed by Zac Adams and narrated by A&E Private Sessions host, Lynn Hoffman. 

I have never personally encountered Tall Betsy but here is a photo that local librarian and historian Margot Still posted in the Bradley County Historical and Genealogical Society group on Facebook:

MORE WEIRDENINGS
While we are talking about terrifying things, let us circle back to Fletcher Park. I mentioned this park before but left out the part where it is notorious for a few of its own murder stories and hauntings.

A man who once lived in a house on the grounds axed his whole family to pieces, set the home on fire, and hung himself in the gazebo outside. It is assumed that this led to the most widely tracked haunting that has long terrorized emergency dispatchers. They frequently get calls about a gazebo in the park being on fire, only for fire crews to arrive and find no signs of a blaze. 

A woman was once murdered and hung from the ceiling inside the old spring house. People report seeing strange figures, odd animal behaviours, unexplained car breakdowns, radio dials being changed, and other spooky events.

During all of my time in Cleveland this past year, I slept soundly on the hill right across from the park with no incidents, but then again, I never visited alone at night. 

Police often park their cruisers in the gravel lot after dark, but it is not known if they stand by in case any real crime happens, or to intervene if someone gets freaked out by a haunting. 

OOLTEWAH
If you are up for a sidequest to Ooltewah, it is just a 20-minutes drive from Cleveland.

One of my besties lives there and I have been through this area dozens of times, but only recently found out about Whistle Stop.

OOLTEWAH WHISTLE STOP RESTAURANT was a joy to visit.

This brick building has been thoroughly restored, stocked with antique furniture and decor, and has a fantastic rooftop dining area that overlooks the train crossings.. 

Oh, and our food was delicious too. I went for the hot chicken sandwich that comes with a tsunami of macaroni and cheese. 

I was too full for one of the extravagant milkshakes they are known for, but I long to try one next time. 

After lunch, haul the kids over to the Little Debbie Park to play or just to take a few fun selfies.  

The Little Debbie Park has no official website of its own but it is located in The Commons, adjacent to the Imagination Station playground in the Collegedale community. 

In the area for a while? Follow me to Chattanooga, Ocoee Country, the Copper Basin, and Blue Ridge.

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