Fernweh, An Ache for Distant Places

Middletown is a small town in southwestern Ohio that author J. D. Vance wrote about growing up in as part of  his novel Hillbilly Elegy: A Memoir of a Family and Culture in Crisis.

It has been referenced to as Halliday’s birthplace and the model for the virtual universe in Ready Player One.

Even cooler, the Wright Brothers spent over a decade conducting flight experiments in Middletown at the local airfield, and there is a historical marker there at the hangar.

Middletown was also key link in the Underground Railroad because its location right on the Great Miami River allowed enslaved people to cross through Ohio, over the river, and into Indiana to freedom.

You can learn more about that at the Underground Railroad Monument by the Canal Museum.

PORT MIDDLETOWN
Middletown was named after founder Stephen Vail’s New Jersey hometown before he moved to Ohio, and it was good fit because of its location right in the middle of the route between Cincinnati and Dayton, Ohio.

Vail founded Middletown in 1802, the town was incorporated in 1833, and it officially became a city in 1886.

Much of its development and success can be attributed to its location along the Miami & Erie Canal that was built in over a span of twenty years, from 1825-1845.

The 274-mile canal ran from Cincinnati to Toledo and had over 100 canal locks, the bulk of which have been landscaped or converted into parks in this part of Ohio.

Canals became less popular when the railroad began laying down tracks in the 1850s, but the Great Flood of 1913 damaged the canal so terribly it was unusable afterward.

Port Middletown Plaza has a water feature with canal marker panels like a model version of the Miami & Erie Canal, and Eric Henn’s Port Middletown mural covers most of the northwestern wall of the TV Middletown building.

Governor’s Square, just around the corner at Broad St. and Central Avenue, has this vibrant music mural framing its fountains and gazebo.

This square/park is considered a main hub of any town festival and a great place to have lunch or enjoy the day.

MURALS IN THE WILD
This mural stopped me in my tracks.

Cuban artist Osmany Piedra Cuza, in combined efforts with Art Central Foundation, Cincinnati State, and Ohio Arts Council facilitated this enormous mural in 2014 that absolutely brings life to an otherwise unassuming alleyway off Central Avenue. I was astounded!

Other great murals can be spotted all around Middletown, just look up.

Downtown Middletown, Inc. is a non-profit dedicated to revitalizing Middletown’s Main Street and surrounding downtown area. You can learn more about some of the events they sponsor and various initiatives they offer on their website.

HISTORIC SITES & MUSEUMS
There are several historic sites in Middletown, with the most popular being the Sorg Opera House.

Sorg Opera House began as the Sorg Theatre in 1891, built by Samuel Hannaford and commissioned/funded by Paul J. Sorg. Sorg was Middletown’s first millionaire and this theatre was a legacy gift to his town.

Famous acts like Al Jolson, Will Rogers, Bob Hope, Sophie Tucker, and a regular rotation of vaudeville acts filled the house in the early 1900s, and it was used for social and civic events in its downtime. In the 1940s, Sorg Theatre went through some serious renovations and reopened as the Colonial movie theatre. Eventually it fell into disrepair before being snatched up by the Sorg Opera Revitalization Group in 2012, bolstered by volunteers and Friends of the Sorg non-profit.

I just recently learned that an entire upper balcony was uncovered after removing a drop ceiling that had been installed at some point, and that the upper level has a ballroom and stage. Those parts are still being renovated and not accessible to the public.

You can listen to an audio tour of Sorg Theatre’s  history here.

The Sorg Mansion and the John B. Tytus House are also quite popular, both located in the South Main Historic District and on the National Register of Historic Places.

The Sorg Mansion is one of the most stunning properties in Middletown and, as you may have inferred, home of Paul J. Sorg.

The John B. Tytus House was the home of a famous Middletown native and major innovator in the steel industry. This home has been a registered National Historic Landmark since 1976 but is now a private residence, so be mindful about poking around.

There are more than 70 additional buildings in the South Main Historic District, many of which are beautiful and ornate private residences.

The South Main Historic District has been on the National Register of Historic Places since 1974, and many of the homes are significant for having been the homes of Middletown’s early developers, advocates, and industrialists.

I do not know much about each individual house, and many of the photos I took were blurry from the rain, but I do look forward to returning for one of the neighbourhood Home Tours.

Below is the Simon Goldman Residence at 121 S. Main Street. It is a Queen Ann and was built in 1891

The Joe Iseminger House below is at 400 S. Main St. It was built in 1927 and is the “youngest” historic home in the district.

Another historic district in Middletown include the Highlands Historic District that has its own Carillon.

Outside of these districts, many history and architecture afficionados flock to the Windamere, Middletown founder Stephen Vail’s former home, and to the Shartle House, the 1836 home that now hosts the Middletown Historical Society.

Swire Inn is now a restaurant and pub, but according to the Middletown Historical Society, it has a very interesting past. It was part of the original 1802 town plat for Middletown and the first building on the site was likely a log cabin.

In 1864 it was purchased, demolished, and replaced by a two-story home, which was sold again in 1885 to be used as a boarding home. The house passed through many hands before becoming the Swire Inn, but has been a beacon of downtown Middletown for well over 200 years.

The Goetz Tower is a former bank and office buildings, but now hosts 20 condos. Residents enjoy living in a prominent building of Middletown history.

DRINKS & EATS
Before I even visited Middletown, I was anticipating a trip to Triple Moon Coffee. This is totally my vibe, and I loved everything about it.

The interior is full of curiosities and reading nooks, cozy seating, and even some larger tables and smaller rooms for a group.

Menu items are named in similar witchy fashion like the Harvest Moon Latte and the Full Moon Muffin with ham, egg, and cheese on an English muffin.

I took a Buckeye brownie with me for later, and it was to die for.

Crab Apple Books & Coffee was closed during my visit but I would love to stop in next time.

Other options for coffee and early foods include Cracked Pot Crepes & Coffee, Maria’s Café, Mockingbird’s Cafe, and Central Pastry Shop. For lunch and dinner, think about Merkel’s Tavern, The Slice, Hector’s Taco Shop, Mz. Jade’s Soul Food Cafe, Steel City Pizza, and The Potato Bar.

For adult bevvies, check out Oriole’s Social Club, Fig Leaf Brewing, N.E.W. Ales, Gravel Road Brewing, and White Dog Distilling, and Rolling Mill Brewing Co.

PARKS
Old South Park is a lovely neighbourhood park to walk off some of those vacation-day calories or have a picnic by the fountain.

Bulls Run Arboretum & Nature Sanctuary is the place for serene walks and quality time in nature.

EVENTS
Middletown has a population of around 50,000 people and some of its most popular attractions include annual events like Port Middletown Arts Festival, Ohio Challenge Hot Air Balloon Festival, Greek Festival, Fenwick Festival, the Civil War reenactment, and Butler County Warbirds events.

Other popular attractions include the Middletown Arts Center, Lyric Theatre, Art Central District, and Huffman MetroPark.

In the area for a while? Follow me to Cincinnati, Dayton, Miamisburg, Germantown, or Hamilton.

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