Fernweh, An Ache for Distant Places

My dad always says “Ohio is a great place to be… from.“

I laugh, but still I love it. I go back as often as I reasonably can.

I spent my first few years of life in a small community in north Dayton, which is a bit north of Cincinnati, and I fall in love with the area even more each time I visit.

When I tell people I am from Ohio, they often extend their apologies or groan at the thought of never-ending corn fields and puritan ideology. That is not the part of Ohio I am from, though.

Southwestern Ohio is centered on I-75, the interstate that connects the sprawling metro cities of Detroit to Atlanta across the country.

Cincinnati is its core, and it is not a soft one.

I have written pretty extensively now about Covington, Cincinnati, Hamilton, Miamisburg, Middletown, Dayton, and other cities of the Miami Valley, but this blog is dedicated to Dayton’s Historic Oregon District.

Origins of the Oregon District trace back to 1829, making it Dayton’s oldest neighbourhood and the first of its fourteen historic districts.

It was platted in 1829 and contains the longest surviving mix of residential and commercial properties in the city of Dayton. Some are as old as 1820.

The Miami & Erie Canal opened just as the district was platted and developed, and a flood of German immigrants quickly moved in to build homes and open businesses there. Many of these structures are still standing.

The source of the name “Oregon” is not completely verified.

Some legends say it was called the Oregon district after the local fire department acquired a fancy “Oregon Pumper” and nearby business owners started name dropping at every opportunity, calling their businesses the Oregon Brewery, Oregon Mills, and the Oregon Boot Store for notoriety.

We may never know for certain.

In 1967, the East Dayton Renewal Plan called for demolition of more than 160 homes in order to construct a new housing project, just like its neighbouring Haymarket community had recently suffered. A Chicago firm stepped in to save the district.

They stalled the demolition, at least. After the firm abandoned their plans, Oregon District residents and local preservationists created the Oregon District Historical Society (ODHS) and began brainstorming.

ODHS officially registered the Burns-Jackson Historic District but later changed the name to the Oregon District in 1972, then added it to the National Register of Historic Places in 1974.

Today the Oregon District takes up about twelve city blocks between Fifth Street and US 35. Its western to eastern borders are Patterson Boulevard to Wayne Avenue.

Fifth Street is the main road and the heart of the district, and it was voted one of the Top Five Greatest Streets in America by the American Planning Association in 2015.

Since then, it has only gotten better and better.

LOCALS ONLY
The Oregon District is a food, drinks, and entertainment district so this blog will mostly be about hedonism and shopping.

My favourite part about the Oregon District is that nearly all of the businesses are locally-owned by local people, and you can not find them anywhere else outside of Dayton.

The streets are lined with historic buildings, antique and vintage shops, cafes, restaurants, pubs, comedy clubs and music venues.

Outside there is always some sort of busker, street performer, parade, block party, festival, or event going on, most famously Hauntfest, the biggest Halloween party in Ohio and the Miami Valley.

Another rad thing about the Oregon District is that from Friday afternoon until Monday morning, it becomes a pedestrian only area.

It has been like this as long as I can remember, but the city recently started calling this its weekly “Out on 5th” event.

We also have something in Ohio called DORA, which stands for Designated Outdoor Refreshment Area.

If an area is classified as a DORA, it means you can buy an alcoholic drink in a specifically marked cup and drink it anywhere within the DORA boundary.

It is more like free range drinking than it is in most cities where you have to stay on one certain patio or cramped in behind a gate. I wish more states would chill out and let people drink a damn beer outside.

FOOD & DRINKS
Reza’s was a long-time favourite that recently closed, but thankfully Press Coffee Bar is still serving.

Thai 9 has been open since 2003.

I remember when I was finally old enough to drive out of state by myself for the first time and I went to visit friends in Dayton, and we went to the “new” Thai and sushi restaurant in the Oregon District.

It is hard to believe that was more than 20 years ago.

The food has been consistently wonderful with each return, from the sushi and Tom Kha soup to authentic, spicy entrees.

Lily’s Dayton won the little contest I secretly held in my mind for the best biscuits and gravy in Dayton. I pursued this contest for an entire week at various places before deciding on Lily’s. Good job, y’all.

Their tropical, tiki-themed décor feels like stepping into paradise with a menu that matches.

Surprisingly, the price point is lower than I anticipated for such decadence.

Another element of their primo environment is that they are super inclusive, LGBTQ+ welcoming, and have a variety of intimate booth settings and festive patios to accommodate any group.

I went back again (and again) for my other favourite breakfast, a Lox bagel.

Salar, Spanish for “to salt,” specializes in Peruvian and world fusion cuisine.

I remember noticing this striking building long before I knew anything about the restaurant itself.

It was originally built in 1850 by Elias Heathman to house his grocery and cracker-making business.

On nice days, during certain months, staff moves seating outdoors into the street so patrons can take in a little of the Old World feel while dining.

Trolley Stop is nestled in a tavern built back in 1839, and I was impressed to learn that the food is much healthier and “cleaner” than I expected.

I am actually quite fond of the place.

I had a cup of their creamy dill potato soup and the Hippy Stacker sandwich with grilled chicken, bacon, avocado, Swiss, lettuce, and herb aioli on wheat.

Lucky’s Taproom & Eatery has a blackened grilled chicken sandwich with beer cheese and red cabbage slaw on their menu, but it arrived with black bean hummus instead.

It was good, but I am not sure what it actually was.

Toxic Brew Company is the Oregon District’s neighbourhood brewery.

They have cool murals, spooky decor, craft beer, delicious cocktails, and a covered patio that makes it excellent for people watching.

Win-win all around, here.

Blind Bob’s is one of the most hopping music venues in Dayton. Many of my friends’ bands have played there over the years.

Once more with the cool murals.

Deaf Monty’s Wine Bar is a quirky neighbourhood hangout that is named after the owner’s pup.

Stop in to buy a bottle or to enjoy a glass of your favourite wine with a cup of cichetti, whichever bits of cheese, crackers, olives, bread, and olive oil they have on hand.

You can bring your own food, whether it is take away from a nearby restaurant or a sandwich from home. They don’t care.

Dublin Pub and Van Buren Room (Belle of Dayton) are two more great options for drinks at the east end of Fifth Street.

Dublin Pub can get a bit rowdy and packed, whereas the Van Buren Room is more reserved and swanky.

Warped Wing Brewing, Yellow Cab Tavern, Wheat Penny Oven, Roost Modern Italian, Jay’s Seafood, Newcom’s, Troll Pub, Oregon Express… there are so many more options in the Oregon District.

SHOPPING
Heart Mercantile is my favourite store in the Oregon District and they specialize in items made by local artists and crafters.

They have a rep for being inclusive, supporting gender and racial equality, speaking out for human and animal rights, calling out Karens, and buddy I am here for it.

Omega Music is a nostalgic place for records, posters, figurines, collectors items, clothing, stickers, and other music memorabilia.

The shop has been around forever and is a bit dusty, but I am so thankful music stores still exist. I hope they always do.

BRIM is a fancy hat and millinery shop serving “her, him, and them” in the old Baker’s Hardware building.

This is the oldest storefront in Dayton and has been standing since 1851.

Baker’s Hardware closed in 1962 when half the building collapsed, so what you see now is only half its original mass.

Still, I adore the building and always find myself taking photos of it as if some new angle will emerge.

Vintage and antique lovers will have a great time browsing Clash Gallery & Boutique and Feather’s Vintage Clothing.

Mike’s Vintage Toys is the spot for big and small kids alike.

Bonnett’s Book Store is in the old 1800s Ware Block dry goods store.  I have tried to visit this store SEVEN times across a span of two years.

Each time was during the open hours posted on their building and listed online, but the doors have been locked all seven times.

Anyone know the secret passcode to get into this place???

You will find a few smoke shops in the Oregon District like Check Your Head and Puff Apothecary, and tattoo studios like Rebel Rebel and Gem City.

I can not leave out Exotic Fantasies (no website) which always has the most raunchy and comical phrases posted on their marquee.

Year after year after year, they have not let us down.

Neon Theater has been serving the community with arthouse, indie, and foreign films, documentaries, live screenings, and even mainstream Blockbusters since 1986.

I have spent many evenings strolling around the residential side of the Oregon District, either when I was staying at someone’s home there or just visiting the district for dinner or a show.

The homes and lawns there are so beautiful and unique.

Brown Street used to be a main thoroughfare in the Oregon District, but it no longer connects to 5th due to a huge disaster in 1918 that destroyed much of the infrastructure in its path.

Tecumseh Street has the largest concentration of old homes built as far back as the 1840s, and Jackson Street has several impressive antebellum homes.

PreservationDayton.com has a great self-guided audio walking tour here if you would like to learn more about each home.

Many of the homes still have ornamental horse and carriage hitches, street lamps, and gas lamps.

Keep your eye out for historically famous properties like the John H. Balsley Mansion tucked in between more practical homes.

In the area for a while? Follow me to some of Dayton’s coolest neighbourhoods like Tipp City, Historic South Park, St. Anne’s Hill, Old North, the Huffman District, Fire Blocks, the Metroparks, and Wright Dunbar.

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