HAYWOOD COUNTY, North Carolina encompasses the communities and towns of Waynesville, Lake Junaluska, Maggie Valley, Canton, and Clyde.
WAYNESVILLE is in the heart of Haywood County and has, among its many mountains, an impressive 18 peaks with altitudes over 6,000 feet!
It is said that the last shot of the Civil War east of the Mississippi River was fired in Waynesville, North Carolina in May of 1865. You can visit the memorial on Sulphur Springs Road.
We made time to visit North Eaglenest Mountain, formerly called Mount Junaluska, right inside the peaceful retreat community of Lake Junaluska.
Waynesville was founded in the early 1800s by a Revolutionary War colonel who named it after his commander General “Mad Anthony” Wayne. I found an episode of the American Military History podcast which tells a little more about the Mad General.
Modern Waynesville is a low-key and unassuming town with much more to it than the humble, faded awnings and worn brick buildings let on. It is the second largest town of Western North Carolina and is situated between the Blue Ridge Mountains and the Smokies.
The liveliest downtown area starts at the Courthouse and extends only a few blocks along Main Street, though there are other cool areas nearby. We found so many boutiques and specialty stores along Main and smaller side streets, so be sure to wander.
The main goal of our weekend here was to check out the local craft beer scene and see our friends in concert, so we had quite an itinerary.
FROG LEVEL is a historic district in Waynesville. Construction of Frog Level first began in the 1800s as a railroad commerce center.
At the time it was considered downtown, while the area near Main Street that is now known as downtown was called “Uptown.”
There are a few different murals in the area involving a frog and a level. Get it?
Social services, doctors, retail, general stores, and places of leisure filled Uptown whereas Frog Level, a nod to its lowland location near the creek, catered to the needs of railroad workers, tradesmen, industrial repairs and storage, and travelers.
Squat, wooden panel-covered buildings comprise a large part of the Frog Level District, giving it a sort of Wild Western cowboy feel.
You can read an extensive history of the construction, demolition, relocation, and development of buildings over the decades here.
Many of the brick buildings have been renovated and converted into cool spaces like Panacea Coffee Company and Frog Level Brewing, a health food store, and thrift/antique shops like Second Blessing, Frog Pond, and Dead Man Walking.
Richland Creek and the railroad run right through the district.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Sweet Onion Restaurant was our first check-in, and we were starving. This place is known for dishes based around the sweet onion itself, so we ordered all of them.
The Sweet Onion soup came first, and it was heavenly. Next came the crispy sweet onion strings with a spicy sauce.
We also had a side salad and a small macaroni & cheese. The versatile sweet onion was highlighted differently in each dish and everything was delicious.
In the Frog Level District, Panacea Coffee Company offers a knockout lox plate. We arrived late in the brunch hours and they had just ran out of bagels, but this fresh-baked baguette did the trick. Be sure to check out the back patio and sit for a spell by the water.
The interior of Panacea is detailed with high ceilings, massive windows, various types of seating arrangements, and cozy nooks.
Over on Montgomery street, Wicked Fresh Seafood & Meat Market caught our attention with their “Fresh Lobster Rolls” signs. We quickly made a U-turn and ran inside.
It has been almost two years since I had my first authentic lobster roll and clam chowda in Boston Market, and this lobster roll took me right back there.
Upon further inquiry I learned that the owners of Wicked Fresh, if not obvious by the name, are Boston natives and brought the song of their people down to Waynesville.
Wicked Fresh offers traditional butcher meats, seasonings, marinades, sides, fixings, drink, etc. so you can gather items for a home-cooked meal or recruit an impromptu picnic.
Eating it on the hotel balcony overlooking the mountains with a Waynesville soda counts as a picnic, right?
Firefly Taps & Grill on Main Street was a rustic place with a vibrant menu. We shared the deviled eggs and salad, macaroni & cheese, and a pimiento cheese sandwich.
Sauced was a fun stop for drinks. Our bellies were full but we still spent the entire time gawking at the brick oven pizzas that all the other guests were eating.
Sauced has several cool murals, custom beer taps for faucet handles, and lots of other interesting things to see.
MAD ANTHONY’S is a funky taproom right of Main Street that bills itself as the premier Waynesville venue for craft beer. They do not brew their own beer but they proudly support and promote the best regional and local brews around.
They carry over 50 craft beers and wines of all varieties, conveniently colour-coded based on style. For example, the Belgian/German style beers were in Green, Pilsner/Lager/Wheat beers were in yellow, and Porters are in purple.
This made it easy for my probably-needs-to-wear-glasses ass to narrow down options and eliminate eye strain / anxiety when presented with such an extensive selection.
Seating is plentiful indoors with a small patio outside. We shared these roasted pork belly and mango tacos with a side of grilled corn. Very simple and comforting
FROG LEVEL BREWING COMPANY
The historic Frog Level District is the home of Waynesville’s very first brewery, Frog Level Brewing. The veteran-owned brewery opened shortly after holding multiple tastings and test runs back in 2010 and now produces over 700 barrels of beer annually.
Inside Frog Level it is lively and spacious, with red brick walls and various seating nooks.
Hopscotch, a “classic Scottish ale with a rich malt, a little oak, a touch of caramel, and low hops” was delightful and immediately crave-able. My friend opted for a hoppier brew, the Salamander Slam citrus IPA.
Other options on draft included Lily’s Cream Boy Ale, Raspberry Shandy, the Bug-Eyed Coffee Stout, Ultraviolet Blueberry Sour, Infrared Cherry Cranberry or Pomegranate Sours, and the Southern Sally blood orange Gose. Yummmmmm.
Several food options caught our attention on the “Canteen” menu. We decided on the beer brat with provolone and grilled onions, which was about average in quality, and a Cuban wrap.
I was skeptical about a Cuban served in a wrap instead of on grilled Cuban bread, but it was a delicious surprise. Other options included a pulled pork wrap, pimiento cheese wrap, Portobello wrap, a club, and a Philly cheesesteak.
My favourite part about Frog Level Brewing is the outdoor seating area they share with the neighbouring Panacea Cafe, with lots of mood lighting and a lovely view of the river.
We took our time river gazing and being entertained by a cute duo playing a cover of Vulfpeck’s hit “Baby I Don’t Know.
BOOJUM BREWING
Our first spot on the list was Boojum Brewing, which is located directly on Main Street and boasts 16 taps of their own delicious beer brand. Most of you already know that I am not an IPA or hops fan, but I was pleased with their diversity.
I had the Hounds of Helles, a Bavarian-style light lager, and the Triclops Tripel, a Belgian Trappist- style yeast ale. Our server was able to procure a sample of the Total Cave Darkness Imperial Stout but the tap had unfortunately just ran out.
Other treats on this day included Hootin’ Annie Apricot Wheat ale, Balsam Brown malty ale, Coconut Lime Gose, Graveyard Fields Blueberry Coffee Porter, Tripel Lindy White Wine Barrel Aged Tripel, and a few IPA types.
Boojum also has an interesting food menu that includes salads, soups, nachos, burgers, the Cuban, falafel, gyros, and entrees like Jerk chicken, steak, salmon, and risotto.
THE LEGEND OF BOOJUM
According to the brewery, Boojum was a mystical 9 feet tall creature covered in grey hair. Half mountain man and half Sasquatch-like beast, he liked to drink his home brew, hang out in caves with his woman, and roam around collecting sparkly things which he was known to stash all across the Smokies.
Like most crypto specimens, he was forced into hiding from hot pursuit, rarely to be seen again.
THE GEM BAR
Boojum has a 21+ club located below the brewery called the Gem Bar, keeping with the theme.
I am known for my keen sense of smell (among other odd things) and that day, it served me well. My friend and I were enjoying our drinks when I just could not take my focus away from the strong scent of electrical fire.
We had struck up a conversation with our server so I asked her if she was aware of anything that might be off. She talked to the manager who started to come over, but the second he stepped outside he froze and darted downstairs. He discovered that one of the outlets connected to some light fixtures had blown a fuse and was smoking profusely.
I won’t say I saved the day or anything but there was definitely some clapping and other embarrassing attention. We were treated to a private tour even though they were not open yet, and we enjoyed the low-key atmosphere underground.
BEARWATERS BREWING
Canton-based Bearwaters Brewing makes their own tantalizing Pilsner, Hefeweizen, ESB, and a Pumpkin PRD Red Ale.
Bearwaters has a spacious outdoor seating area and sits right on the Pigeon River that its restaurant is named after. I learned an interesting tidbit on the website too; Haywood County bodies of water all originate within the county with no external sources. That typically makes it difficult to maintain excellent water quality.
Bearwaters prides themselves in being responsible stewards of their waterways, working to “protect and conserve our unique and critical water resources by focusing on the reduction of non-point source pollution through public education, community engagement, and restoring degraded streams.”
Check out this video:
Just Simply Delicious lured us in with the will-weakening aromas of chocolate and buttercream. We admired the cupcakes, S’mores brownies, cinnamon buns, eclairs, and other treats before making our choices.
THE WATER’N HOLE is a two-story bar and venue with a chill vibe, and they regularly hosts local and regional bands.
We went to see our friends’ bands, Skunk Ruckus and Viva Le Vox.
WHERE TO SHOP
The walls of the Olde Brick House are lined in herbs, spices, and teas so naturally it is one of my favourite shops in Waynesville. I found some Earl Grey Creme tea, Orange Habanero seasoning, and other treats.
EarthWorks Gallery hosts local and global mystical treasures with an art studio in the back.
Wall Street Books is a short walk from Main Street with a very diverse selection of used books and a lovely outdoor garden for reading and socializing.
Davis Home Furniture has so many lovely items I wanted to bring back with me. I had been looking for the perfect piece for my kitchen- something that matched my black and white theme with lots of succulents- and I found a painting here that is the only one of its kind.
Twig & Leaves Gallery showcases a huge collection of local art, pottery, mosaic-mirrored guitars, gifts, and more.
Moonlight & Garbo Boutique has some very striking handmade local jewelry and high fashion accessories for reasonable prices. We enjoyed chatting with the owner and trying on some of her wild pieces.
The Strand is an independent movie theatre right on the main strip. We have one of these theatres in my neighbourhood back at home, and I enjoy the eclectic mix of genres and time periods.
LAKE JUNALUSKA
Halfway between Maggie Valley and Canton, Lake Junaluska is a peaceful North Carolina retreat that has thrived quietly for over a hundred years. Slightly under 3,000 people live in this area of less than six square miles.
Lake Junaluska is an ubiquitous name, referring to the 200-acre man-made lake itself as much as it does the community surrounding it, and its world-renowned religious conference center.
The Lake Junaluska Conference and Retreat Center is headquarters of the World Methodist Council / United Methodists, with deep connections to Seventh-Day Adventists and other denominations.
While their mission is to demonstrate “Christian hospitality” at the retreat, they are open to all people without discrimination.
Check out their events/recreation video:
We felt pretty at ease here. There were scores of children and teenagers running around without a care in the world and lots of kayaks; a few crosses here and there, but no overtly religious vibes or imagery that kept a couple of heathens or the general public from running around and having a good time in nature.
Lake Junaluska is a census-designated territory, which occurs when a thriving community extends past the legal and/or geographical borders of an incorporated city.
Here, residents rely on certain utilities and municipal benefits from Waynesville, but claim dwelling in the community itself instead of Waynesville proper. Other similar communities thrive as autonomous places but parameters often remain in limbo.
North Eaglenest Mountain, the lake’s stunning backdrop, used to be called Mount Junaluska. Chief Junaluska was the leader of the Eastern Band of Cherokee who lived for nearly 100 years during the late 1700s through late 1800s, and the mountain was originally named after him.
In 1913, with hardly a dozen finished homes, Lake Junaluska welcomed visitors and residents. The nearby Richland Creek was dammed to redirect water into the empty basin after many of them settled in, and within a year, several inns and institutions were built to sustain the growing infrastructure of the new and serene Lake Junaluska.
The Rose Walk is one of the most notorious features of Lake Junaluska. A 2.5 mile walking trail loops around the lake and over a dozen gardens, framed by fragrant roses of all colours.
We were hard pressed to find a spot that failed to provide a gorgeous view of the lake and mountains.
The central garden leads you to a bridge that crosses the lake. In the distance you can see one of two large playgrounds and some lake houses to the right.
This garden was full of sweet blossoms and towering bushes, shade trees, wildflowers, and herbs.
Anyone can stay in the lodges, lake houses, or private homes and enjoy access to fishing (with a North Carolina license), hiking, swimming, kayaking, and taking boat tours.
Lake Junaluska’s attachment to Waynesville means it is only minutes from Blue Ridge and nearly 20 high peaks in Haywood County. It is only about 30 miles from Asheville and is included in its greater Metropolitan geographic area.
We found some pretty wild properties near the lake. Some of them sit high up on the mountain and have special lifts/elevators leading to the road. I could not imagine having to rev my car up this steep driveway!
You can visit Juna Gifts & Grounds for a glass of fresh lemonade or a snack. The Buttered Biscuit restaurant, Wheels Through Time musuem, and the World Methodist Museum are nearby also.
Holidays are guaranteed to bring vibrant festivals to Lake Junaluska. Independence Day and Labor Day are two of the main events with parades, fireworks, etc. The Folkmoot Festival, the Smoky Mountain Folk Festival, and the Balsam Range Music Festival draw thousands of guests from all over the world each year.
Or if you’re a lone bird and just want some peace and quiet, this could be the place.
Exploring the many small towns of Western North Carolina is a serious passion of mine, and Waynesville is definitely near the top of my list.
In the area for a while? Follow me to Sylva, Chimney Rock, or Lake Lure!
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Fernweh, An Ache for Distant Places 
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